Castleton Tower, Moab Utah
North Chimney
4 hours to summit
Thanksgiving 2016, Ike and I met Laura and her mom in Moab. After much consideration, we decided to attempt Castleton via Kor-Ingalls route. We turned back after the first pitch because the calcite was so slick and we did not feel good about the climb. Ever since this day, we have been talking about going back, so we worked on our crack climbing skills and off we went.
Fun and adventurous route. First pitch felt hardest and had very sustained jams. Difficult move at bulge 15' before belay has good protection with a #2 cam. 2nd pitch was most fun. I placed a #5 cam here and walked it up thru the crux 15' off the belay. P3 could easily be combined with P4, but there would be pretty good rope drag.
We met a cool guy, Wally - he happened to know a climbing partner of mine, Brad and mentioned that he had taken his now girlfriend up a route called Epinephrine, which we will be doing in two weeks with Brad.
Laura saw a guy take fall at the top of pitch 1. 2 pieces of gear pulled and a fixed piece caught him after about a 60'-70' fall.
Doubles of cams #.3-#3, #4, #5. #6 would protect lower on pitch 2, but can walk a #5 up just fine.
 |
| Castleton standing tall with The Priest, Nuns and The Rectory on the left |
No comments:
Post a Comment