We Do Stuff: 2024

Eureka Mountain

April 21, 2024
Eureka Mountain 13,505'
Eureka Couloir

Hoping to get some spring skiing in before the snow went away completely, I suggested to Laura that we try climbing and skiing Eureka Mountain in the Sangres this weekend. Weather looked terrible throughout the rest of the state but to the south, the outlook was perfect. Freezing temps overnight, blue sky day and almost no wind forecasted. Our friend Wyatt stayed the night at our home in Colorado Springs and we headed south at 2:30 am. The drive was tense as we went in and out of dense fog almost the entire way to Westcliffe. We didn't know how far we'd make it up Hermit Pass Road, but would drive as far as we could before being stopped by snow. 9,750' was where we stopped.

Wyatt and Justin above the clouds as we climbed Eureka Mountain

We started hiking from there with skis and boots strapped to our backpacks, unsure how long we would have patches of dirt to deal with before the snow became consistent. It soon became clear that snow would be consistent quickly, and after a half mile of hiking, Laura and I switched to skis while Wyatt strapped snowshoes to is mountaineering boots. Progressing up Hermit Pass Road, we were at our intended turnoff, just above Hermit Lake in 2.5 hours.

Laura and Justin skiing toward the base of the Eureka couloir

We could see our snow line in the distance and carefully chose a route through the benches that would allow us the least amount of side hilling. A half mile of traversing and we were at the base of the Eureka couloir. It is a beautiful snow line that climbs 40 degree snow for 1,500' directly to the summit of Eureka Mountain.

Wyatt and Justin switching from skis and snowshoes to crampons

We strapped skis and snowshoes to our backpacks and started up the couloir finding excellent snow conditions much of the way. Wyatt and I swapped off putting in a boot pack to the very upper 25' where the snow became much steeper and a bit unconsolidated. We chose a mixed line, climbing a few rocks to exit the couloir and found ourselves just 20' from the summit of the mountain.

Justin in the Eureka couloir

Justin leading the way through the end of the Eureka couloir

We stood on the summit as a group at 10:40 am. The day was beautiful and the sun had been shining all morning so we made the decision to pick a snow line down and ski out before the snow became too soft.

Justin and Wyatt on the summit of Eureka Mountain

Laura and I skied about 1,000' of excellent snow all the way to Hermit Lake. It was now just past noon and the snow was becoming very soft from the heat of the sun. We did encounter one area of concern just above the lake. While crossing through a rocky and treed area, we triggered several wet slab avalanches. The snow would build up below our skis and when it became too heavy it would slide and take the snow below it as well.

Justin skiing down Eureka Mountain

From the lake, Wyatt made his way over to the road while Laura and I chose to ski the trees down, eventually connecting into the road as well. We all made our way back to the car safely, completing our excellent day in 9:32 car to car, having travelled 11.6 miles.

Below Herman Lake, we skied through the trees

Laura commented, wondering why it was not more well known. It had everything all the classic lines have. Great access, steep snow, a bit of spice at the top and leads directly to the summit. I would highly recommend this as an excellent outing for anyone who likes solidarity and wants to explore a bit of the well known path!

Looking east, we were above the clouds all morning

Wyatt and Justin low in the Eureka coulior

Wyatt and Justin in the Eureka couloir

Climbing the Eureka coulior

Laura happy to be out on such a bluebird day

Justin and Laura climbing Eureka coulior

Wyatt leading the way up the Eureka coulior followed by Justin

Justin and Wyatt climbing through the crux of the Eureka coulior

Laura working through the last steep section to the summit

Summit of Eureka Mountain

Justin scouting the best route to ski

Justin skiing down Eureka

Wyatt coming down a steep section of Eureka

Laura skiing down Eureka

Utah Canyons - Shenanigans, Monkey Business, Hog 2, Hog 1

April 13-14, 2024
Utah Canyons - Shenanigans, Monkey Business, Hog 2, Hog 1

It had been exactly two years since Laura and I had canyoneered with our friend Josh. He was searching for partners for some canyons in the north wash area and I saw someone on facebook looking for a partner there as well. While the weather didn't look great in Colorado, in Utah it was just right to run a few canyons so we set up a group and made a plan to camp at the Sandthrax campground on Friday night. We decided to leave Hazel at home this weekend since we will be going back to the same area in two weeks time and the drive is over 8 hours.

With just a 15 minute stop in Fruita for gas and dinner, Laura and I arrived to camp at 8:30 pm. Josh was not there yet so we chose a visible area to park the Jeep and crashed in the back. The plan was to be moving by 7 am Saturday morning as we had a fairly ambitious plan of running both Shenanigans and Monkey Business in the same day. 6 am alarm goes off and looking around, I see Josh parked right next to us. We'd never met Daniel before but in a few text messages I had relayed our plans for the weekend. He pulled in at 6:30 am ready to go. I love it when a plan comes together and everyone in on time!

Shenanigans

We set up a shuttle for Shenanigans and headed for it first, leaving the cars around 7:30. The weather was cool but we knew it would heat up as the day progressed. Shenanigans is the most narrow canyon we have ever done so I took a pack with our smallest rope and a single, small Gatorade. Josh skipped the pack and instead hooked water to his belt. Daniel shouldered a small pack as well.

Gearing up for the first drop into Shenanigans

Daniel downclimbing in Shenanigans

Working our way down the canyon, it narrowed and opened in several areas. We downclimbed what we could and rappelled several times as well. In the narrowest spots of the canyon, both my chest and back would touch opposing walls. Laura could squeeze through but Daniel and Josh both had to climb up and over several times as it was just too narrow for them to fit through. The scenery was amazing and Josh rated this as one of his top 5 of all time. It took us just 5 1/2 hours car to car.

Daniel going high at a particularly narrow section

Josh even used his headlight in one of the narrow passages

Interesting and fun rappel in Shenanigans

After a 30 minute lunch and hydration break at the car, we jumped back into canyon mode and headed for Monkey Business. This canyon, while impressive, was not as narrow as Shenanigans. It was much shorter and we were able to downclimb almost the entire canyon. We completed Monkey Business in about 3 hours and were back to the cars after a 9 hour day.

Justin working down canyon

That evening we relaxed at camp and ate tacos while chatting about canyons and life in general. As we sat around camp, a cat with a green headlamp passed by. I pointed it out, exclaiming "why is that cat wearing a headlamp?" Josh replied "Is it an Alien?" Sure enough, the cat belonged to another group of canyoneers and had run Leprechaun with them that day. I now have the idea to write a children's book titled The Canyoneering Kitty.

The canyoneering kitty

Sunday held the same start plan and we had decided on Hog 2 and Hog 1 as they are shorter canyons. We could head out after the first or easily combine them together if time allowed. Hog 2 is a fun canyon and had good downclimbs. We were able to complete the canyon in just 2 hours.

A section of Hog 2 nicknamed the birth canal

Exiting via the shortcut climbers exit was exciting as you have to climb exposed slab. Daniel went first and tossed a rope for the rest of us to use as a handline.

Exposed slab climbing on the climbers exit between the Hogs

Hog 1 is a canyon that we took Hazel through when she was just 1 year old and we knew it was a fantastic option. There is a lot of downclimbing, some high stemming and narrows all mixed in. With partner assists and our strong group, we were able to downclimb where several rappel slings were present. Hog 1 is one of my favorite canyons and I would happily repeat it again. It took us about 2.5 hours.

Back to the car before noon, Laura and I rinsed off with our portable shower and hit the road. We were home in time to eat dinner with Hazel and had a blast in the canyons.