Skywalker Couloir

May 29, 2021

South Arapahoe Peak 13,397’

Skywalker Couloir

Skywalker has been on our to do list for several years but Laura and I have never found the time to head north to climb the classic snow line on South Arapahoe Peak. This year we were determined to make it happen so last week we called about the road to the Fourth of July trailhead. The rangers informed us that it was not open but they were working on plowing it. We knew we would be good to go the following weekend. We left home just before 3 am and met Isaac and Nicole at the trailhead at 5:30. There were at least 25 cars there and we were sure we’d have company in the couloir. As we began hiking we did not encounter any other people until we reached the base of the couloir. There were two people who were out hiking but were not climbing. We all could not believe that we were the only ones here. This climb is generally crowded but today luck was on our side. 

Working our way up to the base of the mountain

Swampy meadows at the foot of the mountain

Checking out the rest of our route

We stopped and stashed our snowshoes and put on our crampons at the base of the steep snow. The line looked amazing and the snow conditions we perfect. With each kick, we would get perfect crampon sticks and the climb up went smoothly. 

Starting up the couloir

Near the entrance of the Skywalker couloir

Looking back at Isaac and Nicole working their way up Skywalker

This marmot was busy doing something and kept knocking ice clumps down on us

Getting close to the Princess Leia exit

Justin taking a break near the end of Skywalker

The top of the couloir has three options and we all chose the most difficult, Princess Leia exit, which goes at about 60 degrees or so. An ice tool along with an axe made the climb secure and we all breezed our way to the top of the couloir. 

Justin fighting through a runnel in the Skywalker couloir

Justin working past the cornice to exit Skywalker

Waiting at the exit of the couloir

Isaac coming through the Princess Leia exit on Skywalker

I exited first and as I made my way to the summit of South Arapahoe, I considered making a quick run over to North Arapahoe. Ultimately, I decided I shouldn’t go without my partners and instead chose to relax, eat and enjoy the views from the summit of South Arapahoe. A short while later, Laura, Isaac and Nicole joined me. 

Summit of South Arapahoe Peak

Neat dial at the summit of South Arapahoe identifying nearby peaks

We celebrated with a group selfie and started down. The snow had softened so we were able to glissade multiple times making out descent go quickly. The hike out was uneventful and were back at the trailhead at 12:20 pm. We drove to Nederland and had lunch before heading back home.

Isaac descending from the summit of South Arapahoe 

Descending South Arapahoe

Glissading down South Arapahoe Peak

Isaac practicing a self arrest

Justin practicing a self arrest

Touch n’ Go to Anthill Direct



May 25, 2021

Eldorado Canyon

Touch n’ Go to Anthill Direct, 5.9, 5 pitches

Laura and I took advantage of a beautiful day Tuesday to start getting back into climbing shape. We have a few alpine rock objectives this summer and haven’t climbed much recently. I had climbed Touch n Go with Roland a few years back but we bailed and headed over to Yellow Spur due to crowds on Anthill. When I suggested we climb the very fun Touch n’ Go to start off our day, Laura agreed and we were set. It is a good, steep crack climb that leads to the second pitch of Anthill Direct. I lead the pitch and Laura followed, meeting me at the anchors and passing by to set a belay at the base of the second pitch of Anthill. Climbing Anthill, I lead the second pitch and Laura took the runout 5.6 section. It was evident that we haven’t climbed much lately as our transitions were very slow and our route finding and anchor building was not efficient either. We made it through the climb and I really enjoyed looking out over Boulder and the green fields as I belayed Laura. We finished the climb in about 5 hours – too slow! Today was a good reminder that we need to brush up our skills and climb way more before we head back into the alpine.

 

  







Ice Mountain and North Apostle

May 23, 2021

Ice Mountain via Refrigerator Couloir – 13,951’

North Apostle – 13,860’

Laura and I set out from home at 3am to attempt a climb we’ve talked about for several years. We thought we could catch it in good condition by going early in the year but knew we would add a few miles of road walking because of the early season attempt. We arrived at the Lake Ann Trailhead 4wd road at 5 am and drove about 1/2 mile before being stopped by a large snow drift blocking the road. It was 5:30 am when we started walking up the road. The walking was easy and dry as we passed the upper trailhead for Lake Ann and Huron Peak. Just a short distance later we would encounter continuous snow as we cut off toward Apostle Basin. 

We put on our snowshoes and began the walk through the trees toward the base of the mountains. We passed a group of skiers and when we asked them what their objective was for the day they said the Refrigerator, just where we were headed. They seemed tired and frustrated when they answered and it seemed they were already considering turning around for some reason that Laura and I could not understand. It was not even 7 am and the day was looking beautiful! We continued on and after stopping for a snack, we exited the trees and worked our way through the open Apostle Basin. Postholing occasionally, even in our snowshoes, we slowly gained elevation and worked our way toward the base of the refrigerator couloir. 





We started up the steep slope around 9:30 am and made steady progress as the narrow chute steepened. Looking back, we noticed the skiers we passed earlier were no longer following us. They turned around right where the climb and ski gets good. Again, we couldn’t understand their decision but that didn’t affect us as we continued upward. Climbing with one ice tool and an ice axe, we exited the couloir and scrambled the 100’ to the summit of Ice Mountain at 10:45 am. 





Looking out across the ridge that leads to North Apostle, we knew we were in for a spicy downclimb and traverse. The snow conditions were not great and the rock was loose and slippery. Continuing on in our crampons, we scrambled down the exposed ridge making a few 5th class moves to get down to more solid snow. We chose what we thought was the easiest way to the saddle of the two peaks and it was not an easy chore. In summer there is likely a decent trail here but it is a completely different experience in winter conditions. 








After safely reaching the saddle, we climbed up easier snow and talus to reach the summit of North Apostle at 12:15. 




We only spent a few minutes on the summit before hiking and glissading back to where we stashed our snowshoes at the base of the refrigerator. The hike out was interesting as we postholed in our snowshoes every now and then, never really knowing when we were going to sink to our knees. We enjoyed the hike out to the car and made it right around 3:30 pm, exactly 10 hours car to car.


Dead Dog Couloir




May 15, 2021

Torreys Peak 14,267’

Dead Dog Couloir

Ryan, Laura, Isaac, Nicole and I all went to climb Dead Dog today. Ryan is tuning up for Mt. Hood the following week so he wanted some snow and elevation since he lives in Texas. Driving up the road, we pushed as far as we felt we could without getting stuck in the deep and soft snow on the road to the upper trailhead. 

Adjusting gear and shoes as we started the hike

The basin that surrounds you is beautiful and holds several peaks we have climbed recently – Edwards, Grays, Torreys, Kelso Mtn. As we passed the summer trailhead for the mountain, we crossed the bridge and strapped on snowshoes. The approach was good as we took it easy letting Ryan move at a pace he was comfortable with. 

Peaceful basin below Grays and Torreys

Isaac and Nicole in the basin

We reached the base of the couloir and switched to crampons sometime around 9:30 am. The snow was softening and wet slides were evident. We tried to move as quickly as possible but still had some wet snow pushed on us by skiers dropping into the top of the couloir. 

Looking up the couloir at Nicole and Laura

Looking down Dead Dog couloir at Justin and Ryan

Interesting snow patterns as we're ascending Dead Dog couloir

Summiting around noon, the weather was beginning to turn for the worse so we walked off the mountain and glissaded back into the basin before making the slushy hike out back to the car. Add another 14er to Ryan’s list and another great day in the mountains for everyone!

Near the top of Dead Dog Couloir

Summit of Torreys Peak

Descent from Torreys Peak

Menacing clouds moving in, glad we're headed down.

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