Pikes Peak Y Couloir

June 15, 2019
Pikes Peak Y Couloir

It's 4 am and Laura and I are at the Barr Trail parking area with a plan to climb Pikes Peak starting from the east and ending on the northwest. Barr trail is a beautiful hike and we enjoyed it in the dark, looking out over the lights of Colorado Springs. As we made steady progress and the night turned to day, we noticed that clouds were already building in the sky. We would have to watch carefully and make good decisions throughout the day.

Reaching Barr Camp just before 7 am, we went inside and took a look at the weather forecast. It showed a strong chance for snow late in the afternoon so we figured we would continue on and see what happened. Just a mile past Barr Camp, the trail breaks off toward the bottomless pit.

We took the trail cutoff and worked our way through several patches of snow, eventually wrapping around to the mountains north face and the beautiful cirque.

The Y Couloir finally came into view as we stopped for a lunch break around 9 am as as we refueled for the final 2,000 feet of climbing to the summit. First on rock and then to snow, we ascended the Y Couloir steadily.

It was in stable and good snow condition and we enjoyed the climb up. About half way up the couloir we noticed the clouds had moved in quickly and that it was likely snowing or raining on the summit. We make a final push to the top and ended in a cloud of fog and several inches of new snow.

At the summit, we went into the summit house to learn that the road had been closed to all vehicles. Our plan to run down the mountain would not be safe now as the thunder rolled and snow fell. We relaxed in the summit house for a few hours and as they reopened the road, we were fortunate to be offered a ride down by a stranger. Within a few hours we were back in town and thankful that we had a great day out climbing and had met some very nice people willing to help us out with a ride!

Royal Arches

June 7, 2019

Royal Arches

Yosemite National Park

Laura and I have wanted to climb in Yosemite for a while and since we have a few days in California, she chose a 50 classics route in the valley. Royal Arches was first climbed in 1931 and is 18 pitches of wandering climbing. The route can be free climbed at 5.10 or there is a fixed rope to use as aid if you need it to get across the short difficulty.

The approach is short, just a 10 minute walk from the parking area at the Awahanee. When we arrived at the base of the climb, there were 2 groups in front of us. One group was on the first pitch and 4 ladies were in line. We discussed the route and the ladies decided that due to wet conditions that it would be better for them to try something different today.

So on route we go. The first pitch is a very slick 5.7 chimney that has almost zero grip. It felt more like climbing ice than rock, but I quickly made it through and  set up a belay at a tree. Laura followed and we were on our way! We climbed through the second section of the route and found ourselves wandering along a path and scrambling around looking for the correct line to follow. I found what I thought was the correct way but there was a waterfall running down the path we would need to climb to progress on the route. I chose to climb an angling crack and roof system above that was about 5.9 or a bit harder. When I reached the top of the roof, I looked across and could see clearly that we were supposed to climb the waterfall pitch, so we rappelled across the falls and got back on route.

 For the next few hours, we climbed alongside a few other groups and pitch by pitch we neared the crux of the route. We were first to reach the tough part, so Laura led up to the pendulum and fixed rope. I wanted to try to free climb the route and it seemed that I was the only one who would attempt it. As Laura belayed, I clipped into the fixed rope and began searching for the correct line across the thin and slabby traverse. I started out too low, but eventually moved higher and found some small edges to step across on that eventually provided me access to a good ledge system to grab onto. I was happy to have climbed through without using the fixed rope! Laura followed and we were once again moving up toward the top of the climb. I lead a few more pitches and Laura took the final two that got us to the top of the climb! We knew we had 10 rappels to get down and that it would take us atleast a few hours so we didn’t waste any time getting going. We set a system that I would set up the rappel and she would look at the descent topo map so we knew where to go. Simu-rappelling and working perfectly together, we moved quickly down the 2,000’ descent. Within a few hours we were off the route and headed to dinner.

We had a great time on this Yosemite climb and are happy to check off another 50 classic! Can’t wait to go back!

 

Mt. Shasta and Yosemite National Park

June 1- 9, 2019

Mt. Shasta, CA 14,179'

Yosemite National Park

Ethan, Isaac and I planned to go to California to do some climbing and since I am working on climbing all the 14,000’ mountains there, I suggested Mt. Shasta be our goal. Early in the year, we all agreed and set an early June date to climb via Avalanche Gulch while conditions would be best. We arrived in CA Friday evening and rented our car for the week. Heading out from Sacramento was easy and we stopped for food and supplies at Walmart on the way. Making the 4 hour drive to Mt. Shasta, we arrived tired and were looking for a comfy spot to sleep for the evening but much of the parking area was full. Wow, we thought this is a popular place! We drove down from the parking area and trailhead and found a flat spot to toss pads on the ground and were quickly asleep around 2 am.

Waking the next morning around 6, we packed our gear and headed to the trailhead to complete permits before hiking the 4 miles and 3,000’ to Helen Lake where we would camp that night. The weather was beautiful, but the sun caused the snow to soften making our hike more strenuous than it should have been. After several hours of hiking, we all reached our camp area for the evening. I was lucky enough to grab a tent site that was already dug out making set up easy and requiring very little shoveling of the snow! We relaxed around camp for the afternoon, melted snow and hydrated as much as we could. Retiring for the evening, we set a 1 am wake up time hoping that moving at night would mean firm snow and easier travel. 

Rain, wind and hail hit during the night and just moments after closing our eyes the alarm was blaring. Up and at it the three of us went and we were moving up the steep snow slope ahead by 2 am. The snow was not great and the hail had left a layer on top as well. The three of us struggled for several hours up the initial slope leading from Lake Helen and eventually guiding us through the Red Banks. After climbing through the Red Banks, we all took a rest before starting up the final steep section on the mountain called Misery Hill. I knew this was the last push so I set aim and didn’t stop until I crested the hill. Taking a break once again, I waited for Isaac and we headed off on the short road to the summit. It was 8:40 am when I stood on the summit and Isaac soon joined me. We celebrated and had some laughs as we awaited Ethan’s arrival. Before long, Ethan was at the top as well and we were laughing as a group once again. The descent went quickly as the snow was softening. I glissaded and was back in camp within a few hours. When the guys arrived, we relaxed for a few minutes, packed up camp and were once again off hiking, this time the bottom was the destination! We reached the car and uncovered our beer buried in the snow, having a cold one to celebrate our accomplishment and the first trip the three of us had been on together in 3 years!

Leaving Mt. Shasta and after stopping for a large mexican food lunch, we drove to Laura’s fathers home near Sacramento. After a round of much needed showers, we all ate once again and retired for the evening. The following day Stan, Laura’s dad and the three of us went rock climbing at the Consumnes River Gorge just 10 minutes from Stan’s home and had a relaxing day on the rock. We had a great dinner once again and the next morning headed off to Yosemite. While in Yosemite we hiked many trails including Mariposa Grove, Glacier Point, Upper and Lower Yosemite Falls, Mirror Lake, Sentinel Dome and several others. We spent a day climbing at the base of El Capitan and enjoyed looking up the massive stone trying our best to pick out specific climbing routes. On Thursday, Laura and her dad arrived and we climbed Royal Arches before heading out of the park the next day. One more night at Stan’s and we were all off to home once again. I am thankful for great friends and for sharing these adventures with people who make life fun!