Eiger - Mittellegi hut and Beyond

August 20, 2017
Eiger Mountain, Switzerland
Mittellegi Ridge Integrale

Almost two weeks ago Laura and I were run off the Eiger by an incoming blizzard. We had climbed the mountain from Grindelwald, past Ostegg Hut, and up the lower part of Mittellegi ridge to Mittellegi hut. The entire ridge, called Eiger Mittellegi Integrale is rarely climbed from base to summit because of its increased difficulty versus just the upper half of the ridge, but we felt that to really be able to say we climbed the Eiger, it was the route we must do.

Day one on the Eiger is here.

Obviously a good route choice, we learned that we missed professional rock climber and base jumper Steph Davis by just one day. She was climbing by the same route as we were. Probably not a big task for her as she has free soloed a 5.11 route on Longs Peak diamond, but it would have been pretty cool to hang out at the hut that night and BS with someone who seems so down to earth and is a huge proponent of helping others to improve through climbing education.

Saturday morning, we woke up at camp near Zermatt on the other side of the country. Our plan was to head south and east to do some rock climbing for a few days and then head back up to try again to summit this famous mountain. After checking weather, we knew plans would once again change. We had a 2 day weather window in Grindelwald and hoped that the snow from last week’s blizzard had cleared enough to make the route a go. We had no idea if the route was in condition but knew we had to go for it now or probably miss our opportunity.

We packed our gear and boarded the train for the 3 hour journey north. When we arrived in Grindelwald, we once again headed for Grindelwald Sports, just as we had done several weeks before. This is the guide center for the Eiger and the staff there are all amazing and helpful. We spoke with a person who regularly guides groups up the mountain and he said that the mountain was coming into condition but that it was still too dangerous to take guided groups on.

Upon calling the hut, Corinna, the hut guardian, informed of no new snow and a party summiting just that morning. It was a go! We asked for a reservation and boarded the next train leaving up to Eismeer Station. This is the route the vast majority of people who climb take up the mountain. It goes to Mittellegi hut and ascends the upper half of the ridge. We were okay with this since just two weeks prior we had spent more than 12 hours climbing there from our camp in Grindelwald, 7,000' below.

Windows of the Eismeer station in the Eiger

When you get off the train at Eismeer, you’re in a tunnel through the middle of the Eiger. You walk down a long dark tunnel and out onto the glacier. Most of the glacier is easy walking with crampons but about half way across we encountered a very thin snow bridge dropping into a several hundred foot deep crevasse. We saw tracks through, and also noticed that some of the bridge had collapsed just hours before, taking some of those tracks away. There was no other way across, so we roped up and Laura put me on belay. Carefully, I descended the slippery snow to the 2 foot wide bridge. Before crossing completely, I dropped down to the side and jumped across to more stable snow and a 15 foot vertical wall. Luckily the snow had softened in the afternoon sun and I was able to kick steps and climb the short section with relative ease using my ice axe as a contact point with the snow. I belayed Laura across, and as usual she had no problems following my track.

The snow bridge we would have to cross

I don't think the rope is doing much at this point

Our tracks across

To get to Mittellegi hut, you have to move off the glacier and into the rock. We had a lot of difficulty finding a section where it separated only a short distance - far enough where we could leap from snow to rock. We finally found a spot and ascended a 5.7 crack for about 100' before reaching easier ground. We knew that the path traversing to the hut was high above us since we had walked down it just days ago so we began scrambling up and up. We were moving slowly having spent too much time getting across he snow bridge and off the glacier so at one point we were checked in on by a helicopter. It was clear that Corinna was expecting us and had become concerned. The chopper came within close proximity of us, made sure we were still moving and headed off again. It was somewhat comforting to know that someone out there knew our plan and wanted us safe.

We're going to have to jump across the gap

About halfway up the steep rock, I had told Laura to go ahead while I coiled the rope. She did and I ended up in a pretty scary situation. I ascended a set of cracks that slowly ran out. I couldn’t climb up any further and would have had a tough time down climbing as well. Luckily, Laura and I always stay within voice contact so I called for her knowing she was above me. She dropped several slings for me to grab and I easily stepped my way out of a scary situation. Within a few minutes we had found the worn path to the hut and climbed the last few hundred feet.


Our view of the route when we arrived at Mittellegi Hut

Arriving at 7 pm, Corinna immediately says "You’re late!" She was unhappy with our arrival time and had clearly been concerned. She served us dinner, which was supposed to be at 6. The three course meal filled us both up and we were finally able to relax and focus on tomorrows climb.

We spent a few hours chatting with a Swiss duo who were going for Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau in a day as preparation for a bigger linkup they were planning. There were also two guys from Holland who were talking about their traverse of the Schrekhorn glacier that same day. End running many crevasses and running and jumping across, sticking in the other side with crampons and ice tools, their stories made our simple snow bridge crossing seem pretty insignificant.

Contrary to the Matterhorn where we were the most experienced group, the Eiger attracts an entirely different level of climber. We were the new ones, and obviously the least experienced group at the hut that day.

After dinner, it was snowing and we all were unsure of what conditions the mountain would offer in the morning. We retired to bed, each with different wake up times. First the Swiss, then us and finally the Holland guys an hour later. When we woke up, the railings around the hut were frozen on the north side. The south side was relatively dry. We geared up, ate breakfast and headed out into the cold and darkness.

The upper Mittellegi ridge route is very easy to follow. Simply stay on the ridge proper the entire way to the summit. Easy to say and even easier to do – it’s only about 2 or 3 feet wide most of the way, each side dropping off sharply, thousands of feet down. Within minutes we had reached the first set of fixed ropes. They assist with hands and provide passage thru the most difficult parts of the ridge. We were roped together, so I clipped our rope to large bars as we climbed while running several secure pieces between us. Laura brought them with her as we moved together about 30 feet apart. Up the narrow ridge and along amazing rock, I couldn’t believe how amazing this mountain was and how much fun I was having. At one point I was so excited I belted out a "Wahoo, were climbing the Eiger! This is so awesome! I’m having so much fun!" Laura concurred, but hurried me onward as were both cold and awaiting the first rays of sun to warm us.

At the top of a long successive section of fixed ropes, the sun did finally rise. Beautiful orange lit up the sky. Our spirits immediately lifted. We moved steadily to the final part where it turns to continuous snow to the summit. Putting on crampons and fighting a cold wind blasting up the north face, we made the summit just 5 hours after leaving the hut. 

 It was 8 am and we were now headed down. The descent is said to take 1.5 times as long as the ascent so we wasted no time getting moving. The south ridge of the mountain descends to a saddle via several rappels and a lot of exposed down climbing. Once at the saddle, you have a long mixed snowy and rocky ridgeline to follow toward Monch. At the upper saddle, you exit west and traverse below the face of the Monch, across the glacier around the mountain and finally over to Jungfraujoch train station. Looks scary and long from above and is similar difficulty to Mittellegi ridge but with more route finding to be had. Don’t get off route here as if you do, you end up on the terrible west flank.

We moved consistently, knowing time was important. Reaching the upper saddle and final glacier walk, we finally relaxed a bit. It looks like forever, but the walk across the glacier and around to Monch hut was uneventful. We reached the cleared path that leads to “The Top of Europe”. Jungfraujoch is a crazy tourist attraction and the highest train station in Europe and as we walked back, rope around our shoulders and gear on our climbing harnesses, several people asked to have their pictures taken with us. They were especially impressed with Laura- a real woman mountaineer! As the tourists stared and pointed, we took off all the gear, coiled the rope and headed inside.


Looking at Monch - we could see several groups of climbers on the top ridge

The route weaves through the crevasses all the way around Monch to the Sphinx (Jungfraujoch)

Doing the tours and seeing the ice caves inside the glacier, we spent an hour there before being picked up by the train. It took us Just 10 hours after leaving Mittellegi hut to reach Jungfraujoch. 5 up and 5 down. We were very pleased and happy with our effort for the day!

Inside the glacier at Jungfraujoch

Laura’s friend and coworker Rick inspired the trip to this mountain when we first told him that we were going to Switzerland. We are glad he did. From the beginning, this was my mountain- the Matterhorn Laura’s. I think I won this one as the Eiger did not disappoint. Mittellegi Integrale is a spectacular route on a demanding peak and one I would go back to many tines over!

Eiger complete! Hell yeah!