Yellow Spur

April 28, 2019

Eldorado Canyon

Yellow Spur 5.9+

When I suggested we head for Eldo on Sunday to place some trad gear before heading on our trip to Red Rock near Las Vegas, Laura said she knew what we would be climbing before I ever suggested it. The Yellow Spur is a classic and some regard it as the best route in Eldorado Canyon. Established by none other than Layton Kor, we couldn’t wait to get on the route. While climbing at this grade is not at my limit, it is close when you have to place your own protection as you go. I was feeling confident, having been climbing well over the last month and so as we arrived at the base of the route; I geared up knowing this would be an amazing climb.

The first pitch zig and zags around several roofs at 5.9 and ends up at a tree. I lead through, placing just one cam and clipping a few fixed pins. Laura followed and we moved on through the next few sections of the climb quickly. My favorite pitch was 3 and what I called the twin dihedrals; two amazing corners to climb to a good ledge. We moved over 15’ to the next pitch and worked our way through the tricky hand traverse and up to another belay ledge. A storm was building in the distance and the seemingly moderate winds suddenly became ferocious. Chalk was flying from my bag and gear and slings were straight out in the wind as I built a belay so Laura could come join me at the exposed ledge. As she climbed, I had considered how we might retreat from the climb if the winds didn’t calm at least some.

When she arrived, we never discussed the retreat, although she did mention later that she had thought about it as well. The next pitch, or rope length of the climb is in a difficult corner with fixed pins and very thin foot and handholds. I knew that this section would be scary and challenging, but I had no idea that it would be as wild as it turned out to be. As I lead out from the belay, I carefully stood up and reached around the arête to clip a fixed pin. As I clipped in, I grabbed the sling and held on when the wind gust blew me off the wall. I clipped the rope in and wedged my hand into a seam, bear hugging the wall waiting for a break in the wind. As the wind calmed for a few seconds, I would climb and then do the same – hold gear and hug the wall as best as possible to prevent flying off and swinging around the arête. After what seemed like an hour, I made it to the traverse section. 40 feet of unprotected but easy 5.7 climbing and what would turn out to be the most intense lead of my life. As I stood above the last pin and moved into the traverse, I found a hand hold as the wind gusted and tried to blow me off the wall. For five minutes I held on, knowing full well that if I moved, I would surely be pulled from the wall by the wind. Suddenly the rain started and I knew that I needed to make a decision quickly. I took a few deep breaths and calmed my nerves. Talking myself into what I knew I had to do, I mapped out the moves across the traverse and went for it. The rain was light and had stopped, but the grips were still not great. Hand then foot, I had never pressed and pulled like this on 5.7 terrain. When the wind would blow, I could feel the gear on my harness fly up and hit me in the back, then drop back down. I spotted an exit and quickly moved to a belay.

My mind switched and I was fully concentrated and intent on building a safe and fast belay to get Laura up to me as quickly as possible. As she began climbing I could not hear or see her so I would go through the pitch in my mind as she climbed. At the move around the arête, she stalled for maybe 15 minutes. The wind was fierce and thoughts crept into her mind. “I was super scared; that was the most terrifying climb of my life even though I was on top rope. I kept thinking that the wind would blow me around the corner and that it could cut the rope if I couldn’t get back to the wall.” Laura eventually moved around the corner and pulled on gear up the seam and across the traverse as the wind would allow. Reaching me at the belay, there was no discussion. We would be bailing off the route! As we rappelled down our nerves would calm and we talked about the climb. Laura insisted that she had no idea how I lead the last pitch and all I could say is that was scary! As we got back to the ground we decided that we would be back on the route soon and hopefully in far better conditions! I don’t say it often, but today was insane!

Martha Couloir

April 27, 2019

Mt. Lady Washington 13,281’

Martha Couloir

The list on the fridge has had Martha on it and for several years now but we have for one reason or another – mostly wind – changed plans and not attempted this climb in Rocky Mountain National Park. This weekend, we decided early in the week and said to heck with the wind. Laura, Brian and I left his house in Loveland at 5 am and arrived at the Long’s Peak trailhead just an hour later. Gearing up and heading out, we knew that wind would be a factor today. The approach miles through the forest weren’t too bad, but as we neared tree line, we could tell that we were in for a treat of snow blasting and heavy winds.

As we proceeded toward the Long’s cirque and Chasm Lake around 9:30am, we passed at least five parties who were already turning back and bailing. We decided differently and put on an extra layer and crampons to head for the base of the steep and narrow couloir. I was constantly distracted away from our objective. The diamond was gleaming and I was continually eyeing the approach and the line up the 1000' wall Laura and I are planning to climb in just a few months. Working our way up the snow apron and to the constriction of Martha, I could see that the ice was not really ice. It was more like mush. I guess that’s the trade-off you get for beautiful warm and sunny days in the mountains.

We were okay with the conditions and continued through the first mixed ice and rock section before roping up. I lead through the following 200’ placing just one piece of protection in the rock as I proceeded upward and set a belay to bring Laura and Brian up through the difficulties. 

As they made their way, the wind continued to blow up the couloir ferociously, sometimes limiting my visibility to just a few feet due to the blowing snow. At the belay, we collected ourselves and proceed up the final few hundred feet to the summit of Mt. Lady Washington around 1:15 pm.

The wind was such that I could not stand on the summit without being knocked down. We guessed 60 mph gusts and quickly retreated off the northeast side of the mountains ridge to respite from the wind.
The hike out was slushy and the miles passed quickly as we all reminisced about the many times each of us had been to the area and climbed the surrounding mountains. 9 hours after we had started we were once again back at the car. We were all thankful for a great day in the mountains and warm temperatures despite the high winds. We had a great time and said “These are the days you remember” not because of the climb but because of the experience!

Horseshoe Mountain

April 19-20, 2019

Horseshoe Mountain 13,905'

It has been a great snow year here in Colorado but spring and couloir climbing season has finally arrived. Once the snow consolidates, the inset gullies, or couloirs, are the most direct line to summits. This year they’ll last well into June!  Isaac, Laura and I had plans for Easter weekend and Ryan decided to join in, driving out from Nebraska to get some snow under his feet before heading to Mt Rainier. Friday morning we all met in Idaho Springs and loaded up into one car before driving the 20 minutes to the Mt. Bancroft trailhead. Getting a late start, having soft snow on the approach, windy conditions and Ryan moving slowly coming from just a few hundred feet of elevation the day before, we reached the notch roughly half way up the mountain and made the decision to bail out and head to Beau Jo’s for pizza and beer. Ryan wasn’t sure if an XL would be enough for the four of us but after an interesting discussion with the waitress, he agreed and we ordered a single pie that ended up being plenty!

The next day we would go to Horseshoe Mountain at 13,905’, so our destination for the evening was the cabin just over Hoosier Pass. We relaxed through the evening and got an early start to Fairplay and over to Horseshoe and the Boudoir couloir. We left the trailhead just before 7 am and were at the apron of the couloir 1.5 hours later. Isaac wasn’t feeling great with his ankle so he headed out to explore while

Ryan, Laura and I took off up the 35 degree snow slope. The scenery of Horseshoe Mountain is amazing and as I climbed I couldn’t help but pick out other lines that I would like to climb there in the future. Slowly and steadily we made our way to the upper portions of the couloir, past the old building nearing the summit and topped out at 11 am. We relaxed on the summit and chatted, taking in the outstanding views surrounding us on this blue sky day. We glissaded down the steep slope and what took us 2 hours to climb was once again above us in just 10 minutes of butt sliding time. We all met up at the car and agreed that it was a great day and we would all enjoy returning someday soon!

Moab + Behind the Rocks Ultra + South Six Shooter

March 22-26, 2019

Moab, Utah

Moab again!? Yes, and off we go! Passing our normally scheduled fuel stop in Fruita, we learned that in the truck, it was possible to make it to Moab without stopping and with one gallon of fuel to spare! Laura and I were in Utah again for the Behind the Rocks Ultra Run and to do some climbing and 4 wheeling. When we arrived, it had just rained heavily and we learned that one climbing routes we were looking forward to, the 3 Penguins at the entrance to Arches National Park, was closed due to raptor nesting. We chose to tour the park and check out the beautiful scenery even though both of us had visited several times before.

I had originally registered to run 50 miles but because I have been having some pretty bad foot problems, I chose to drop to the 30k option. After picking up race stuff, we met Brian, Annie and Marvin for dinner and had a few beers before heading back to the hotel for a good night’s rest before the run on Saturday morning. Laura was too slow to register and the event was sold out before she secured a spot, so it would be just myself, Brian and Annie running. The run started in the Behind the Rocks area just south of Moab and wandered through beautiful trails in the area.

I had a strategy to hit 12 minute miles on average, but since I have never ran a race before, I wanted to take it easy. I started off on a good pace, but quickly slowed myself down. 5 miles in and

I’m just cruising running about 11 minute miles. Laura had taught me how to pace for 50 miles, not 20, so I decided that this would be a leisurely cruise and besides, I really didn’t want to be tired for the rest of the day when I was finished running! 10 miles in and I sent Laura a message – "10 in, 10:50 pace. Just cruisin’ J." I figured that I should pick it up a bit and finished the race in 3 hours 17 minutes.

78th overall / 18^th in my age group and not bad for my first running event ever! Tracking my heart rate, I never even pushed into a workout zone, so it must have been pretty casual. Annie, Laura’s sister, finished in 5 hours 2 minutes and Brian completed the 50k in 7 hours 28 minutes. Humm, I wonder if I’ll do more of this stuff I thought…but I don’t even like running!

The following day we awoke to rain so we decided to put off climbing and instead go 4 wheeling. Brian took his Jeep Scrambler to the Baby Lions Back and to Fins & Things and we goofed off and had a great time on the easy for Moab trail. We spent the afternoon in arches once again and saw an arch we’d never been to before – Sand dune arch.

The following day Brian, Laura and I headed to Indian Creek and climbed South Six Shooter. By the standard route, the desert tower is a winding and rope dragging mess. We climbed the 5.7 classic to the summit of one pinnacle and then Laura and I climbed a 5.9 crack route to the summit of the pinnacle next door.

We were one of six groups on the first route and the only ones climbing anything other than the standard route to the summit. Anyway, Laura was happy to have completed another desert tower and it was a beautiful day with sun and no wind – a nice change from the rainy days past.

Our last morning we again went wheeling and this time it was the infamous Hells Revenge trail. Brian had no problems in the Jeep and soon we were at the final obstacle. We noticed some interesting drivetrain activity and later figured out that he had snapped a rear axle and we were now a lifted with 35’s front wheel drive Scrambler; Interesting description, but still enough to get us out without issue.

We all had lunch with Laura’s mother and then headed home. Weekends like this are amazing and I’m thankful to have the motivation to try new things like running, climb new routes in the area and remember how much fun wheeling really is!