April 12, 2025
Moonshine Couloir – A Long-Awaited Climb
Mt Arkansas
Moonshine Couloir had been lingering on my short list for a few years now—one of those striking alpine lines that keeps calling your name until you finally answer. After several frustrating months sidelined by a stubborn hand infection, I was finally feeling healthy enough to get back into the mountains. Eager to stretch my legs again, I suggested to Laura that we plan a weekend climb. After digging into trip reports and checking current conditions, it looked like Moonshine was in decent shape.
Our friend Wyatt joined the adventure as part of his training for Denali, which he plans to climb in just a month. While Laura and I planned to approach on skis and switch to crampons for the couloir, Wyatt opted for snowshoes to better mimic the conditions he expects on the Alaska Range.
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Leaving the trailhead
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We pulled into the trailhead south of Fremont Pass just after dawn and were moving across the snowy basin by 6:30 a.m. The approach is straightforward—less than two miles—but the early morning light cast a soft pink glow over the peaks, making it a particularly beautiful skin in. Spirits were high as we moved steadily across the wind-scoured basin.
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| Justin and Wyatt checking out the route |
By 9:00 a.m., we reached the base of the line and transitioned from skis to crampons. A group of two women were already climbing ahead of us, kicking in a boot pack that made our ascent more efficient. We followed their steps into the couloir, which rises roughly 1,000 vertical feet.
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| Justin starting up the skirt of Moonshine couloir with the infamous cornice at the top |
About halfway up, Wyatt and I moved ahead to break trail through the upper section, kicking steps into slightly softer snow as the sun began to hit the face. Laura hung back a bit and enjoyed chatting with the girls.
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| Wyatt and Justin climbing in Moonshine couloir |
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| The cornice looked like a wave as we worked around the eastern edge |
We topped out on the summit of Mt. Arkansas, 13,795 feet, just after 10:00 a.m. Blue skies stretched above us, and the views across the Tenmile Range were excellent. Wyatt decided to continue along the ridge toward another summit, squeezing in some additional elevation and mileage for his Denali prep.
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| Justin and Wyatt at the summit of Mt Arkansas |
Skiing down Moonshine Couloir was tempting but felt just outside our comfort zone given the snow conditions and exposure. Instead, we opted to traverse north along the ridge and drop into one of the gentler bowls back into the basin. The snow was warming quickly under the strong spring sun, and we knew timing would be critical.
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| Working down the north ridge was probably harder than skiing Moonshine :) |
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| Ready to ski! |
As we carefully made our way along the slope, a wet slide suddenly released beneath Laura’s skis, sending her sliding roughly15 feet downhill. Fortunately, she wasn’t injured—just shaken up—and we were able to regroup quickly and continue our descent.
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Justin navigating through the slide area
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The rest of the ski down went smoothly all the way back to the trailhead. By 12:15 p.m., we were clicking out of our bindings next to the car.
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Enjoyable ski despite the slushy conditions
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It wasn’t the most technical climb we’ve done, nor the longest day in the mountains—but it was meaningful. After months of recovery, standing on a summit again felt awesome. Sharing it with family and surrounded by blue skies and snowy peaks, made it even better.
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| Back at the car celebrating the climb and ski |
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