We Do Stuff: White Rim Road, Canyonlands National Park

March 1–2, 2025

White Rim Road

Canyonlands National Park, Utah

Deep in the heart of southeastern Utah lies a 100-mile loop that winds through one of the most dramatic desert landscapes in the United States. Laura has wanted to bike the White Rim Road in Canyonlands National Park for years. It is a rugged, scenic route in the Island in the Sky district, that loops through layered rock cliffs, sandstone arches, and sweeping canyons carved by the Colorado and Green Rivers. Originally built by the Atomic Energy Commission in the 1950s to access uranium deposits, the road is now a beloved backcountry trail for high-clearance 4x4s and mountain bikes.

Laura saying bye to Hazel and Justin before heading down the Shaffer switchbacks

Although we’ve talked about doing it together, we never quite got around to planning the logistics. This year, however, things were different. After a recent bout with sepsis, I’ve been left with limited use of my left arm and hand, and I’ve been getting stir-crazy sitting around the house trying to heal. So, we decided to make it a long weekend getaway with friends and head to Moab. I drove, with Hazel riding shotgun, while Laura finally got the chance to ride the 100-mile, scenery-packed White Rim Road.

Laura at Mussleman Arch

We were able to secure a camping permit at the Murphy Hogback about 65 miles in going clockwise. The plan was to complete the loop in two days to make it more leisurely and enjoy the dark sky camping. Assuming Laura would take longer on the bike, she took off down the Shafer switchbacks while Hazel and I checked out the overlooks and waited for our friends.

Interesting arch and towers along the White Rim Road

While Hazel enjoyed exploring and spending time with her friends, I took in the incredible views from behind the wheel. Hazel and I even drove down to the Colorado River, taking in the rugged beauty of Canyonlands from a different perspective.

Laura at one of the overlooks along the White Rim Road

We stopped at the Gooseneck Overlook offering a glimpse into the Colorado River canyon and hiked a short distance out to Musselman Arch, an impressive natural rock bridge just off the road. A bit further along we entered Monument Basin featuring giant sandstone monuments throughout the canyon including the Washer Woman Arch, Airport Tower and Monster Tower. Off in the distance we could see the Needles District with spires galore. It was getting late in the day and we still hadn't caught up to Laura, so we skipped the White Crack viewpoint and headed up the Murphy Hogback to set up camp. It was dark when we got there, but we were efficient with setting up and were able to hang out and enjoy the company over lanterns and a camp heater since fires are not allowed.

View of the Needles District from the White Rim Road

Sunset from Murphy Hogback

The following morning, we checked out the amazing views from camp and climbed some of the boulders we were camping next to. Laura headed down the hill and eventually waited for us at the Holeman slot canyon. As far as canyons go, it was not impressive, but it was a great stop to get out of the vehicle and explore with the girls. I think Nick and Sharon may be interested in doing more canyoning in the future.

Hazel enjoying the views on a chilly morning in the desert

Hazel, Charlotte and Sierra playing on the giant boulder at the camp

We passed the Candlestick Tower and eventually took a longer break for lunch at potato bottom before heading up Hardscrabble Hill, probably the most technical portion of the drive. The road out from there was relatively smooth and easy cruising except for a few deep sand bogs. We drove the rest of the way out of the national park and picked up Laura before heading up the mineral canyon switchbacks.

Heading into Holeman Slot

Nick and Sharon learning some downclimbing

The mountain bike ride was awesome and I would do it again given the opportunity. The temperatures were perfect and I wouldn't have wanted it any hotter. During the day, it was around 70, but chilly in the upper 30's at night. We discovered that you could bike just as fast as you could drive and the road was relatively level and easily rideable for a novice mountain biker. After I rode down the Shafer switchbacks, my brakes quit working almost entirely. It seems they may have developed some air in the lines and would kind of slow me down a bit after pumping them for a few seconds. Fortunately, it was not too technical or steep and they worked well enough to finish the ride and add a bit of adrenaline.