Lovers Leap - Traveler Buttress

August 10, 2021

Laura and I had one last day in California before heading home so we decided to take advantage of a cool morning and head over to Lovers Leap to climb Traveler Buttress, which is listed as one of the 50 classic climbs of N America. I’m not sure it belongs there but it is because the author of the book made the first ascent of the route so he gets to do what he wants. We got to Lovers Leap and made our short hike in to the base of the route where there was one group who was climbing the same first pitch of the route but then deviated off to climb a different route. The first pitch was enjoyable 5.9; steep California style crack climbing and we both really enjoyed it. 

First pitch of Traveler Buttress

At the base of the second pitch, as I started up there were some guys above us and I made a comment to Laura that that sounded just like Alex Honnold. So as I was climbing up the off-with part of the second pitch, who else but Alex Honnold and his climbing partner Timmy O’Neill rappelled down to the ledge right next to Laura. 

Alex Honnold and Timmy O'Neill rappelling down next to us.

She must have been star-struck because she just smiled and then asked him for a picture. I yelled down and said don’t be a dork, but Timmy and Alex said it was too late for that. Anyways they took some pictures and laughed for a few minutes. 

That time I ran into Alex Honnold on a ledge at Lovers Leap

Since I had just listened to a podcast about an adventure climb that Alex just went on with Tommy Caldwell, I asked him a question about that and told him that it was a fun podcast to listen to. As I continued up to climb the off-width crack, Alex told me that I should be climbing the finger crack instead because it would be way more civilized and I wouldn’t have to work so hard. I switched over to the finger crack and it was quite a nice variation. Funny how really experienced climbers can give good advice! I finished up the second pitch, made a belay at a good ledge and Laura followed. 

Justin struggling up the off-width on the second pitch of Traveler Buttress

The third pitch climbed up and around a very exposed arete and was quite nice. I ran the rope out as far as I could before setting a belay. 

Third pitch of Traveler Buttress

Laura followed and lead the final pitch of rock to the top of the route. It was a casual day out but we had lots of fun and it was pretty cool to run in who somebody who is the one of the best climbers in the world. Alex and Timmy were pretty cool guys and were very nice to us when we met them - we appreciated that from two guys who could very well be role models for our daughter some day. 

Justin finishing up the final pitch to the summit

We are happy that we got to go to Lovers Leap this time because as of today, two weeks after our climb, there’s a massive forest fire that looks to threaten and most likely burn all of the Lovers Leap area. We sure hope that doesn’t happen.

Looking up at Lovers Leap on the hike out.