Cynical Pinnacle

Cynical Pinnacle, Center Route
September 8, 2019

Just over an hour from home is a series of rock formations outside Buffalo Creek. It's called Cathedral Spires and Cynical Pinnacle holds what some refer to as the best rock climb in Colorado - The 5.9+ Center Route. 3 pitches of spectacular crack climbing up a massive granite block, Center Route is highly rated by all who climb it. Since Laura and I have been putting in time to be stronger on the rock this season, we felt like this was a good time to go for the climb. Gearing up the night before, I had read that triples of some cam sizes were preferred, so I prepared the following rack which turned out to be just about right. Single .3, .4, double .5, triple .75 - 3 and one #4 camalot along with about 10 alpine draws. Next time I'll probably skip the #4 as every time I placed it, it was more to get the weight off my harness than to protect somewhere another cam could not. Arriving at the base of the hike around 8:45 am, Laura and I set off on the steep 1,500' ascent toward the pinnacle. The grade is steady and the trail well maintained. An hour later, we reached the base of the route and found only one group on the rock. We were expecting many more on such a popular climb! We geared up and I was climbing the first 5.8+ pitch by 10:25 am. With excellent finger and hand jams, the first pitch was enjoyable as I moved cleanly up the amazing crack system for about 40 meters. Laura thought the first pitch was a bit challenging, but I think she just needed to get warmed up and used to the size of the crack. The second pitch was a challenge for me as sustained 5.9+ climbing while placing trad gear is near my limit. I placed gear about every 6'-8' and climbed through the three cruxes of the pitch in about 45 minutes. It was roughly 50 meters. Laura followed and joined me at the top of pitch 2 as the clouds rolled in. We knew we would be racing rain so I took off up the chimney in pitch 3 and as efficiently as I could worked through the remainder of the climb reaching the chains at the top of the climb just as thunder began to roll. I quickly set up an anchor and belayed as Laura climbed the last 100' to join me. We celebrated but quickly set up a rappel as sprinkles came down on us. Using our two 55 meter ropes we were able to reach the ground in two rappels at 2 pm. The rain never got heavy and we were happy not to have to make the hike out soaking wet! Hiking out it is all you can do to not stop every 5 steps and look back at the pinnacle. It's an amazing rock in a perfect setting. We will be back and I would absolutely recommend this climb to anyone who is confident at 5.9 trad.