We Do Stuff: September 2019

Lone Eagle Peak

September 14, 2019

Lone Eagle Peak, Colorado

Are “classic” routes really good just because they lead to the summit of a neat looking mountain? Lone Eagle Peak in the Indian Peaks Wilderness is just that, a really cool looking mountain. From the correct viewpoint at Mirror Lake, Lone Eagle appears to stand alone but from afar it is obviously not alone, nor is it the highest summit even of the connecting ridge.

View of Lone Eagle from a distance

So, because it looks cool, Isaac, Laura and I set out to climb this mountain by what we hoped would be a better route than the standard class 4 scramble.

At the base of the route

The north face of the mountain climbs low class 5 gullies, ramps and chimneys to a headwall and finishes off with nice 5.7 and 5.5 pitchs to reach the summit. The area is beautiful and thus popular with backpackers but we didn’t have time for that. Choosing to make the 20 mile round trip in a day, we set off at 4:30 am and made quick work of the 9 mile hike into the base of our intended route. The conversations went from why the person in front always seems to be hiking too fast for everyone else to first ascents and if rapping into a new route to scout it before climbing really counts as a true first ascent?

Pitch one

Bushwhacking up the tree covered ledges

With few breaks, we reached the base of the route at 8:30 am and took a nice break while gearing up for the climb. Isaac and I would simuclimb most of the route while Laura soloed in between us occasionally if she thought she might need to tie into a bight of rope for a short section of climbing. The first gulley went quickly and was followed by 500 feet on an easy grassy ramp. Reaching the top of the ramp, we found my favorite part of the climb, a 5.6 chimney that leads to a stretch of low 5^th class climbing.

Ike climbing the chimney trailing his backpack

Simulclimbing on Lone Eagle with great views

I lead the chimney as Isaac and Laura tied in and followed without any struggle. Another 3 pitches of simuclimbing and we were at the base of the headwall looking up the steep cracks.

Simulclimbing some easy terrain

Justin at the top of the crux pitch

With belay on, I set off on the 150 foot 5.7 pitch. The climbing was great and the rock was relatively stable for the alpine. I reached the top of the pitch and built a solid anchor as Isaac and Laura tied in and began climbing. The three of us were soon standing on a ledge together again and headed for the final section of the climb to the summit.

Ike climbing the crux

Justin belaying Ike up

Summit

At only 5.4, it should have been easy but with two ropes, something was getting caught and causing me massive rope drag and making the climbing feel a bit more challenging. Anyways, we all reached the belay and coiled ropes before heading to the summit. We knew that we had moved fairly slow as a group of three so no time was wasted. We celebrated our success but quickly turned our focus to the complicated descent.

Justin and Ike reaching the summit

Justin riding the knife edge

Route descriptions make it sound incredibly confusing, but in reality it is quite straight forward. Cross the ridge for a short way until you can access a class 4 downclimb that lands you on good ledges. Follow the ledges for 400 yards but don’t go too low and be sure not to descend the gulley on climbers left.

Climbing gulley on descent

Rather than going down, look ahead to the gulley leading up to a large notch in the ridge. Keep your helmet on and climb this loose pile of rubble being careful not to knock huge rocks onto you partner. Climb thru the notch and head left toward Triangle Lake. Eventually you’ll wrap around the north face once again and be back where you started.
We found ourselves back near the start of the route around 4 pm and set a good hiking pace for the 9 mile trip out. There was little talk on this part of the hike as we were all tired but we made it back to the cars and were treated by a beautiful sunset as we walked the banks of Monarch Lake. So to answer my question, should routes be called “classic” just because the climb a cool looking mountain? In my opinion the answer is no. Lone Eagle was classic, but the climb was nothing to write home about. Regardless of routes, it’s always amazing to be in the mountains with Laura and one of the best friends anywhere. I’ll take that over “classic” any day!

Note: I carried a set of cams .3 - 3 with 2 #2's and a set of stoppers. I would probably go with a single set and a half set of stoppers next time. Our 55 meter rope was the perfect length for the 5.7 pitch.

Descent

Hike out

Cynical Pinnacle

Cynical Pinnacle, Center Route
September 8, 2019

Just over an hour from home is a series of rock formations outside Buffalo Creek. It's called Cathedral Spires and Cynical Pinnacle holds what some refer to as the best rock climb in Colorado - The 5.9+ Center Route. 3 pitches of spectacular crack climbing up a massive granite block, Center Route is highly rated by all who climb it. Since Laura and I have been putting in time to be stronger on the rock this season, we felt like this was a good time to go for the climb. Gearing up the night before, I had read that triples of some cam sizes were preferred, so I prepared the following rack which turned out to be just about right. Single .3, .4, double .5, triple .75 - 3 and one #4 camalot along with about 10 alpine draws. Next time I'll probably skip the #4 as every time I placed it, it was more to get the weight off my harness than to protect somewhere another cam could not. Arriving at the base of the hike around 8:45 am, Laura and I set off on the steep 1,500' ascent toward the pinnacle. The grade is steady and the trail well maintained. An hour later, we reached the base of the route and found only one group on the rock. We were expecting many more on such a popular climb! We geared up and I was climbing the first 5.8+ pitch by 10:25 am. With excellent finger and hand jams, the first pitch was enjoyable as I moved cleanly up the amazing crack system for about 40 meters. Laura thought the first pitch was a bit challenging, but I think she just needed to get warmed up and used to the size of the crack. The second pitch was a challenge for me as sustained 5.9+ climbing while placing trad gear is near my limit. I placed gear about every 6'-8' and climbed through the three cruxes of the pitch in about 45 minutes. It was roughly 50 meters. Laura followed and joined me at the top of pitch 2 as the clouds rolled in. We knew we would be racing rain so I took off up the chimney in pitch 3 and as efficiently as I could worked through the remainder of the climb reaching the chains at the top of the climb just as thunder began to roll. I quickly set up an anchor and belayed as Laura climbed the last 100' to join me. We celebrated but quickly set up a rappel as sprinkles came down on us. Using our two 55 meter ropes we were able to reach the ground in two rappels at 2 pm. The rain never got heavy and we were happy not to have to make the hike out soaking wet! Hiking out it is all you can do to not stop every 5 steps and look back at the pinnacle. It's an amazing rock in a perfect setting. We will be back and I would absolutely recommend this climb to anyone who is confident at 5.9 trad.

Cirque of the Towers

August 28-30, 2019

Cirque of the Towers, WY

Several years ago I added Cirque of the Towers to our to do list on the fridge. I don’t think Laura even knew what it was. I didn’t know a lot about the area either but I did know that is was a popular backpacking destination and that the rock climbing was supposed to be incredible. The cirque holds two climbs in the “50 Classic Climbs” book, both of which we would attempt. After several days in eastern Wyoming, climbing at Devils Tower and visiting Badlands National Park, Laura and I set off on the 8 hour cross state drive to Big Sandy Trailhead in the Wind River Range. 40 miles of dirt roads lead to an overly crowded parking area and an opportunity to ask some hikers for a spoon. We forgot our silverware for the trip but remembered about the time we pulled into the lot! We pulled up to a group of 20 NOLS students but none had anything they were willing to part with. Eventually Laura talked a girl into offering up a plastic fork that was broken completely off. Oh well, at least we can eat now! Upon beginning our hike we asked one more person and luckily they offered two spoons to us. We were thankful and set off on the 10 mile hike into the cirque around 2:00 pm Tuesday afternoon. With relatively light packs considering we’d be in the backcountry for 4 days, the miles passed quickly. We brought a change of socks, rain and down jackets, sleeping bags, a tent and climbing gear along with only enough food to last us the 4 days. The trail is mostly flat until you reach Jackass Pass and climb the 2,000’ over and into the cirque. We quickly found a suitable campsite and had our tent set up by 6:00 pm. I enjoy a good dinner on night one in the backcountry so I prepared ramen with cooked kielbasa sausage, green peppers and zuchinni. A fantastic meal considering all I add is boiling water! As the sun faded behind Block Tower, Laura and I retired to our sleeping bags for the evening and set a wake up alarm for 6 am the following morning. Waking at 6 and eating breakfast, we casually left camp at 7 am. This is way late for us but we didn’t feel as though the Classic 10 pitch route, NE face of Pingora would take all that long to complete. We hiked across the meadow and made our way to the base of the route. Second in line, the first party was climbing and one group was right on our tail. We chatted with the guys behind us and told them to go ahead as they would likely be faster than us on the climb that day. Kevin and Paul were cool and Kevin was the Associate Publisher for Climbing Magazine. We set off on the route and shared belays until pitch 6 when Kevin linked a couple pitches and passed the group in front of them. The climbing was excellent and the granite was spectacular. I had prepared for polished foot and hand holds but quickly gained confidence with perfect hand jams while smearing my feet anywhere they landed. Our plan was to link as many pitches as possible by running the full 70 meters of the rope out before belaying and as such we took the following rack. Single .3 and .4, doubles .5 - #2 and a single #3 and #4 along with ½ set of stoppers and 8 alpine draws. The setup was perfect an I was never short on cams while building belays, usually ending up with a few left over at the end of each pitch. I would probably even pass on the #4 if I were to head for the same line again. Laura climbed excellent and we completed the climb around 1:30 pm, successfully reaching the summit of Pingora by its most classic route!

Pingora NE Face

Wolf's Head, Overhanging Tower, etc from Pingora

Simu Climbing on Wolf's Head

We relaxed and took in a birds eye view of our route for the next day before rappelling the SE Buttress and making our way back to camp. Once again a hot dinner was served, although this time it was only a freeze dried mountain house meal and a snickers bar for dessert as we once again retired to bed early in the evening. 5 am and the alarm goes off. Today we head for the technical portion of the Cirque of the Towers traverse. We knew we wouldn’t have the energy to make the entire traverse so Laura and I decided the night before that we would climb Pingora via the K cracks, climb over Tiger Tower, add in the 50 Classics 10 pitch East Ridge route on Wolf’s Head and add on Overhanging Tower before making a decision on weather to continue on or not. Most people only do one of these routes in a day but we do our thing and look for the linkups! Climbing the South Buttress on Pingora went quickly in 2 pitches and the K cracks variation was amazing. IT takes thin gear and at only 5.8, this was my favorite pitch of the day. We quickly summited Pingora and easily found the rappels toward Tiger Tower. Landing in the notch between the two summits, the day was still new but we would take our sweet time climbing and then getting off of Tiger Tower. Nearly 2 hours later we’re at the base of Wolfs Head.

K Cracks - Pingora

As I set off up the narrow ridge, Laura and I simu climbed the first five pitches of the route in 20 minutes. What has taken the groups in front of us 4 hours or more, we had skipped through like it was nothing. Climbing well and being efficient, we caught several groups on the climb at the piton pitch. Three more traversing pitches with easy climbing but huge exposure and we were on the summit of Wolfs Head. An impressive route in its own right but I am not sure it belongs in the 50 Classics. Maybe I was less impressed because we were moving too quickly to enjoy the route or possibly I get more enjoyment out of less crowded areas even if the climbing is not on par with what we had just done. Anyways, we jumped in front of everyone and got on rappel in front of the groups. 7 raps later and we were on the saddle headed toward Overhanging Tower. At only 5.2, I chose to wear my tennis shoes as Laura and I soloed the route to the summit in about 30 minutes. Winds were blowing heavily and energy was running low. Laura and I chose to rappel the route and when we did we found a core shot in our exhausted rope. It was a good decision to turn back and there was no other choice now as our rope was no longer safe. We headed to the saddle and rappelled down toward Cirque Lake by 3:30 pm. Chatting with other climbers from Sweden, we make a casual descent and hike back toward camp. We soaked our tired feet in the stream and once again had mountain house for dinner. We jumped in the tent before the rain arrived at 7pm. Sleeping through the night, we awoke the next morning, had breakfast and hauled our gear the 10 miles back to the trailhead. We had a flat tire when we made it back to the Jeep but our spirits were high as we had just had a great experience over the last 3 days. I highly recommend the winds to anyone willing to hike a bit as it is a surreal area and deserves to be experienced by many.

Laura hanging out on the piton pitch - Wolf's Head

Devil's Tower and Badlands National Park

August 24 - 26

Devil’s Tower

El Matador 5.10d

Durrance 5.7

Badlands National Park

Dad on Devil's Tower

The annual family climbing trip is on and this year Laura’s father Stan suggested that he thought he could climb Devil’s Tower. It has been a lifelong goal for Stan to stand atop the unique stone in the middle of nowhere, so we figured that at least giving it a shot would be a good plan.

Base of El Matador

Laura and I headed north a day early and arrived at the tower around 4pm. We wanted to attempt the iconic El Matador 5.10d. With dusk approaching faster than we would like, we chose to only climb the first two pitches of the route. I filled out a climbing permit and with only a 15 minute hike from the parking lot, we quickly started climbing. Arriving at the base of “the pitch”, I looked up and prepared myself for the battle. Pitch 2 is 150 feet of super wide climbing but with perfect places for protection the entire way. I set off and quickly learned that there were no hand holds in some places. For 5 or 10 foot sections you could only push against opposing walls. Using your hands and feet, and moving as quickly as possible to beat the inevitable calf pain that would overcome you, I climbed as far as I could without placing gear and then would shove in a piece of protection, clip the rope and take a rest. The climb went smoothly and I eventually stood atop what I think is one of my favorite climbing pitches ever. Laura started off shortly after I topped out and started climbing smoothly. She quickly learned what I meant about the pain as she rested on the rope when the pain grew too much to bear. She climbed to the top of the wide pillar around as the sun began to fade and when she topped out a roar of cheers could be heard from the visitor center parking lot. I guess a few tourists were interested in what we were doing way up there in that spectacular position. We set up a rappel and lowered off the rock reaching our car around 7 pm.

El Matador

Arriving at the hotel, Laura’s brother Brian was just arriving so we grabbed a hotel room and headed for dinner. The next morning would be the climb we all came here for. Early morning arrives and Stan, Laura, Brian and I set out toward the tower.

Base of Durrance route

We walked to the base of the Durrance route and with Brian on board the plan was for me to lead and belay Stan while Laura and Brian would climb together below us. Apparently Stan has problems with shoe soles as while on the approach his climbing shoes fell apart. Not good but some tape would hopefully get him through. I set off on the first pitch of the climb, climbing behind the leaning column and setting a belay at the top of the column.

Dad on the fourth pitch

Brian at a belay

On a belay ledge

Stan would follow and begin to gain confidence. By the top of this pitch, his shoe soles would be completely gone. As I climbed the second pitch, Brian would lend dad his approach shoes for the remainder of the climb.
Pitch by pitch, Stan stayed mentally strong and with the encouragement of his kids below would successfully make it to me at each belay.

Justin cheering us on from the top of a pitch

We knew this would be a challenge for Stan but he did excellent and we topped out on the summit of Devil’s Tower with a huge cheer and high fives all around. Rappelling, we made it back to our packs, loaded up gear and all headed back to town for dinner before settling in for the evening.

Brian topping out on one of the pitches

The next day we all went to Deadwood, South Dakota. We had breakfast and visited the cemetery where Wild Bill and Calamity Jane are buried. Brian headed home while Laura, Stan and I continued on to Badlands National Park. We spent some time in the visitors center and did several hikes around the unique park. As dusk approached, we once again headed back to the hotel with plans to leave early for the second leg of our week long adventure – The Wind River Range.