Eldorado Canyon
Yellow Spur 5.9+
When I suggested we head for Eldo on Sunday to place some
trad gear before heading on our trip to Red Rock near Las Vegas, Laura said she
knew what we would be climbing before I ever suggested it. The Yellow Spur is a
classic and some regard it as the best route in Eldorado Canyon. Established by
none other than Layton Kor, we couldn’t wait to get on the route. While
climbing at this grade is not at my limit, it is close when you have to place
your own protection as you go. I was feeling confident, having been climbing
well over the last month and so as we arrived at the base of the route; I
geared up knowing this would be an amazing climb.
The first pitch zig and zags
around several roofs at 5.9 and ends up at a tree. I lead through, placing just
one cam and clipping a few fixed pins. Laura followed and we moved on through
the next few sections of the climb quickly. My favorite pitch was 3 and what I
called the twin dihedrals; two amazing corners to climb to a good ledge. We moved
over 15’ to the next pitch and worked our way through the tricky hand traverse
and up to another belay ledge. A storm was building in the distance and the
seemingly moderate winds suddenly became ferocious. Chalk was flying from my
bag and gear and slings were straight out in the wind as I built a belay so
Laura could come join me at the exposed ledge. As she climbed, I had considered
how we might retreat from the climb if the winds didn’t calm at least some.
When she arrived, we never discussed the retreat, although she did mention
later that she had thought about it as well. The next pitch, or rope length of
the climb is in a difficult corner with fixed pins and very thin foot and
handholds. I knew that this section would be scary and challenging, but I had
no idea that it would be as wild as it turned out to be. As I lead out from the
belay, I carefully stood up and reached around the arête to clip a fixed pin.
As I clipped in, I grabbed the sling and held on when the wind gust blew me off
the wall. I clipped the rope in and wedged my hand into a seam, bear hugging
the wall waiting for a break in the wind. As the wind calmed for a few seconds,
I would climb and then do the same – hold gear and hug the wall as best
as possible to prevent flying off and swinging around the arête. After what seemed
like an hour, I made it to the traverse section. 40 feet of unprotected but easy
5.7 climbing and what would turn out to be the most intense lead of my life. As
I stood above the last pin and moved into the traverse, I found a hand hold as
the wind gusted and tried to blow me off the wall. For five minutes I held on,
knowing full well that if I moved, I would surely be pulled from the wall by
the wind. Suddenly the rain started and I knew that I needed to make a decision
quickly. I took a few deep breaths and calmed my nerves. Talking myself into
what I knew I had to do, I mapped out the moves across the traverse and went
for it. The rain was light and had stopped, but the grips were still not great.
Hand then foot, I had never pressed and pulled like this on 5.7 terrain. When
the wind would blow, I could feel the gear on my harness fly up and hit me in
the back, then drop back down. I spotted an exit and quickly moved to a belay.
My mind switched and I was fully concentrated and intent on building a safe and
fast belay to get Laura up to me as quickly as possible. As she began climbing I
could not hear or see her so I would go through the pitch in my mind as she
climbed. At the move around the arête, she stalled for maybe 15 minutes. The
wind was fierce and thoughts crept into her mind. “I was super scared; that
was the most terrifying climb of my life even though I was on top rope. I kept
thinking that the wind would blow me around the corner and that it could cut
the rope if I couldn’t get back to the wall.” Laura eventually moved around the
corner and pulled on gear up the seam and across the traverse as the wind would
allow. Reaching me at the belay, there was no discussion. We would be bailing
off the route! As we rappelled down our nerves would calm and we talked about
the climb. Laura insisted that she had no idea how I lead the last pitch and
all I could say is that was scary! As we got back to the ground we decided that
we would be back on the route soon and hopefully in far better conditions! I don’t
say it often, but today was insane!
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