Mt. Arkansas, Moonshine Couloir

April 12, 2025
Moonshine Couloir – A Long-Awaited Climb
Mt Arkansas

Moonshine Couloir had been lingering on my short list for a few years now—one of those striking alpine lines that keeps calling your name until you finally answer. After several frustrating months sidelined by a stubborn hand infection, I was finally feeling healthy enough to get back into the mountains. Eager to stretch my legs again, I suggested to Laura that we plan a weekend climb. After digging into trip reports and checking current conditions, it looked like Moonshine was in decent shape.

Our friend Wyatt joined the adventure as part of his training for Denali, which he plans to climb in just a month. While Laura and I planned to approach on skis and switch to crampons for the couloir, Wyatt opted for snowshoes to better mimic the conditions he expects on the Alaska Range.

Leaving the trailhead

We pulled into the trailhead south of Fremont Pass just after dawn and were moving across the snowy basin by 6:30 a.m. The approach is straightforward—less than two miles—but the early morning light cast a soft pink glow over the peaks, making it a particularly beautiful skin in. Spirits were high as we moved steadily across the wind-scoured basin.

Justin and Wyatt checking out the route

By 9:00 a.m., we reached the base of the line and transitioned from skis to crampons. A group of two women were already climbing ahead of us, kicking in a boot pack that made our ascent more efficient. We followed their steps into the couloir, which rises roughly 1,000 vertical feet.

Justin starting up the skirt of Moonshine couloir with the infamous cornice at the top

About halfway up, Wyatt and I moved ahead to break trail through the upper section, kicking steps into slightly softer snow as the sun began to hit the face. Laura hung back a bit and enjoyed chatting with the girls.

Wyatt and Justin climbing in Moonshine couloir
The cornice looked like a wave as we worked around the eastern edge

We topped out on the summit of Mt. Arkansas, 13,795 feet, just after 10:00 a.m. Blue skies stretched above us, and the views across the Tenmile Range were excellent. Wyatt decided to continue along the ridge toward another summit, squeezing in some additional elevation and mileage for his Denali prep. 

Justin and Wyatt at the summit of Mt Arkansas

Skiing down Moonshine Couloir was tempting but felt just outside our comfort zone given the snow conditions and exposure. Instead, we opted to traverse north along the ridge and drop into one of the gentler bowls back into the basin. The snow was warming quickly under the strong spring sun, and we knew timing would be critical.

Working down the north ridge was probably harder than skiing Moonshine :)

Ready to ski!

As we carefully made our way along the slope, a wet slide suddenly released beneath Laura’s skis, sending her sliding roughly15 feet downhill. Fortunately, she wasn’t injured—just shaken up—and we were able to regroup quickly and continue our descent.

Justin navigating through the slide area

The rest of the ski down went smoothly all the way back to the trailhead. By 12:15 p.m., we were clicking out of our bindings next to the car.

Enjoyable ski despite the slushy conditions

It wasn’t the most technical climb we’ve done, nor the longest day in the mountains—but it was meaningful. After months of recovery, standing on a summit again felt awesome. Sharing it with family and surrounded by blue skies and snowy peaks, made it even better.

Back at the car celebrating the climb and ski

Black Mesa, Oklahoma and Capulin Volcano National Monument, New Mexico

March 28–30, 2025

Black Mesa, Oklahoma High Point (4,974’) and Capulin Volcano NP, New Mexico

It was still winter back home in Colorado, but Hazel had been asking to go camping for weeks. Santa brought her a new tent for Christmas, and she was eager to put it to use. While looking for a trip with decent weather, Laura suggested hiking Black Mesa and stopping at Capulin Volcano on the way back. It sounded perfect.

Laura, Hazel and Justin at the Oklahoma state line sign

The forecast looked promising for the last few days of Hazel’s spring break from preschool, so we packed up the Jeep with all our camping gear and drove south toward Black Mesa State Park, tucked into the far northwest corner of Oklahoma.

Justin cooking dinner at our campsite at Black Mesa State Park in Oklahoma

We set up camp Friday evening and cooked sausages and peppers for dinner before roasting marshmallows and making s’mores around the fire. Hazel couldn’t wait to sleep in her new tent, so we called it an early night and set an alarm for the next morning.

Hazel enjoyed the new tent while Justin enjoyed the campfire at Black Mesa State Park, Oklahoma

The hike to the summit of Black Mesa is just under five miles each way, for a round trip of nearly ten miles. The trail was well-maintained with mile markers, benches, and a few informative displays along the way. The hike was relatively easy, and the displays gave us a chance to learn about the local history, wildlife and ecosystem as we walked.

Hazel and Justin at the Black Mesa Trailhead

Laura, Hazel, and I reached the summit—marked by a large granite monolith—in just 2 hours and 20 minutes. We took photos, Hazel signed the summit register, and we walked over to an overlook with views stretching into New Mexico.

Hazel and Justin hiking on the Black Mesa trail

Laura, Hazel and Justin at the summit of Black Mesa, OK

Hazel signing the summit register

Black Mesa summit register

As the day warmed up, we started our descent around noon. Hazel hiked between us, “slingshoting” Laura and I ahead with a big smile. About halfway down, while running ahead, she tripped on a rock and scraped her knee and nose. After a few tears and a hug, she bounced back and continued the hike like a champ. We made it back to the car in 1 hour and 45 minutes, arriving around 1:45 p.m.

All smiles back at the trailhead

After a break and some snacks, we ventured off to see real dinosaur tracks, made by an Allosaurus, approximately 145 million years ago. Set in a sandy riverbed off the beaten path. The tracks were huge—so big Hazel could sit inside one!

Hazel trying to walk in the dinosaur tracks

Hazel sitting in one of the dinosaur tracks

Next up was the tri-state marker where Colorado, New Mexico, and Oklahoma meet. We took photos, goofed around in all three states, and ran in circles shouting out the names of each one as we circled the marker.

Laura, Hazel and Justin at the tristate marker

We also visited a reconstructed dinosaur bone excavation site and explored a nearby petrified forest area before heading back to camp for our final night under the stars.

Justin and Hazel at a replica of the dinosaur bone that was found here.

Hazel hugging the petrified tree

On our way home Sunday morning, we made one last stop at Capulin Volcano National Monument. Hazel had already completed the Junior Ranger printout while driving—both the young and older kid versions—and proudly earned a new badge and patch. We hiked the crater rim loop trail, taking in views of the surrounding landscape that reminded us how much more there is to see in what we often think of as just “flatlands.” After lunch at the car, we drove down the winding road and stopped by the visitor center before heading home.

Laura, Hazel and Justin at Capulin Volcano National Monument

Hazel at the highest point of the Capulin Volcano rim

It was a fun, unique weekend full of new experiences and adventures—one we hope Hazel will always remember as a special time with her parents.

Hazel showing off her new Junior Ranger patch and badge

Hazel liked all of the animal footprints on the Black Mesa trailhead gate

We all enjoyed the new tent but decided it was smaller than the last one.

Hazel flying like the birds up the Capulin Volcano rim trail

White Rim Road, Canyonlands National Park

March 1–2, 2025

White Rim Road

Canyonlands National Park, Utah


Deep in the heart of southeastern Utah lies a 100-mile loop that winds through one of the most dramatic desert landscapes in the United States. Laura has wanted to bike the White Rim Road in Canyonlands National Park for years. It is a rugged, scenic route in the Island in the Sky district, that loops through layered rock cliffs, sandstone arches, and sweeping canyons carved by the Colorado and Green Rivers. Originally built by the Atomic Energy Commission in the 1950s to access uranium deposits, the road is now a beloved backcountry trail for high-clearance 4x4s and mountain bikes.

Laura saying bye to Hazel and Justin before heading down the Shaffer switchbacks
 
Although we’ve talked about doing it together, we never quite got around to planning the logistics. This year, however, things were different. After a recent bout with sepsis, I’ve been left with limited use of my left arm and hand, and I’ve been getting stir-crazy sitting around the house trying to heal. So, we decided to make it a long weekend getaway with friends and head to Moab. I drove, with Hazel riding shotgun, while Laura finally got the chance to ride the 100-mile, scenery-packed White Rim Road.

Laura at Mussleman Arch

We were able to secure a camping permit at the Murphy Hogback about 65 miles in going clockwise. The plan was to complete the loop in two days to make it more leisurely and enjoy the dark sky camping. Assuming Laura would take longer on the bike, she took off down the Shafer switchbacks while Hazel and I checked out the overlooks and waited for our friends.

Interesting arch and towers along the White Rim Road

While Hazel enjoyed exploring and spending time with her friends, I took in the incredible views from behind the wheel. Hazel and I even drove down to the Colorado River, taking in the rugged beauty of Canyonlands from a different perspective.

Laura at one of the overlooks along the White Rim Road

We stopped at the Gooseneck Overlook offering a glimpse into the Colorado River canyon and hiked a short distance out to Musselman Arch, an impressive natural rock bridge just off the road. A bit further along we entered Monument Basin featuring giant sandstone monuments throughout the canyon including the Washer Woman Arch, Airport Tower and Monster Tower. Off in the distance we could see the Needles District with spires galore. It was getting late in the day and we still hadn't caught up to Laura, so we skipped the White Crack viewpoint and headed up the Murphy Hogback to set up camp. It was dark when we got there, but we were efficient with setting up and were able to hang out and enjoy the company over lanterns and a camp heater since fires are not allowed.

View of the Needles District from the White Rim Road

Sunset from Murphy Hogback

The following morning, we checked out the amazing views from camp and climbed some of the boulders we were camping next to. Laura headed down the hill and eventually waited for us at the Holeman slot canyon. As far as canyons go, it was not impressive, but it was a great stop to get out of the vehicle and explore with the girls. I think Nick and Sharon may be interested in doing more canyoning in the future.

Hazel enjoying the views on a chilly morning in the desert

Hazel, Charlotte and Sierra playing on the giant boulder at the camp
 
We passed the Candlestick Tower and eventually took a longer break for lunch at potato bottom before heading up Hardscrabble Hill, probably the most technical portion of the drive. The road out from there was relatively smooth and easy cruising except for a few deep sand bogs. We drove the rest of the way out of the national park and picked up Laura before heading up the mineral canyon switchbacks.

Heading into Holeman Slot

Nick and Sharon learning some downclimbing
 
The mountain bike ride was awesome and I would do it again given the opportunity. The temperatures were perfect and I wouldn't have wanted it any hotter. During the day, it was around 70, but chilly in the upper 30's at night. We discovered that you could bike just as fast as you could drive and the road was relatively level and easily rideable for a novice mountain biker. After I rode down the Shafer switchbacks, my brakes quit working almost entirely. It seems they may have developed some air in the lines and would kind of slow me down a bit after pumping them for a few seconds. Fortunately, it was not too technical or steep and they worked well enough to finish the ride and add a bit of adrenaline.

Fun arch at one of the overlooks

Murphy Hogback camp at sunset

Charlotte, Sierra and Hazel enjoying being outside

Clementine in a cool canyon perch

Girls having fun in the slot canyon

Justin on the higher switchback while Nick is on the lower switchback going up Hardscrabble Hill


Mt. Arkansas, Moonshine Couloir

April 12, 2025 Moonshine Couloir – A Long-Awaited Climb Mt Arkansas Moonshine Couloir had been lingering on my short list for a few years no...

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