Mt. Shuksan, WA

Mt. Shuksan, Washington

July 26, 2024 

Leaving Hazel at camp for a few days, Laura and I headed over to a new area of North Cascades National Park. We’re out to climb Mount Shuksan and Mount Baker. Driving up the Mount Baker Highway, you could see the mountains come into view. The winding road takes you past the Mount Baker ski area and eventually lands you at the base of Mount Shuksan and the Lake Ann trailhead. We packed our bags planning to make it a two-day trip. Having the tent and all of our sleeping gear, along with food, stove and other supplies packed, we started up the Lake Ann trail. 

Views of Mount Shuksan shortly after leaving the Lake Ann Trailhead

We reached Lake Ann by 9:30 a.m. and quickly found our offshoot trail that let us directly to the Fisher Chimneys. Navigating was really straightforward as Laura and I climbed up and through the chimneys quickly and efficiently. There were a lot of rappel slings, but the climbing was straightforward on decent rock. 

Justin working through the Fisher Chimneys

Laura coming up the chimneys with Mount Baker in the distance

We eventually roped up at the upper section of the chimneys where the White Salmon Glacier reached down and crevasse danger was present. Continuing up, we crossed several crevasses before reaching the base of Winnie's Slide. We stopped and chatted with a guide and his clients for a few minutes and they mentioned there was good camping spots and water just above the slide.  We decided to move up another couple hundred feet and set up our tent at a high camp that would give us easy access for a summit push the following morning. 

Our tent on a ridge at the transition from Winnie's Slide to the Upper Curtis Glacier

We set up our tent and realized it was only noon.  After some discussion, we decided that we would just go for the summit that same day and make an attempt at getting out to the car and to a base camp on Mount Baker the following day. The weather was excellent and the afternoon temperatures were perfect for climbing. 

View of the route from our campsite.  The route climbs up the Curtis Glacier near the left of the picture then traverses across Hells Highway just below the rocks that make up the skyline and ascends the steep glacier right of center. 

Justin just above our camp.  You can see our tent set up at the saddle between the two glaciers.

We climbed the Upper Curtis Glacier before losing elevation and crossing Hell's Highway, navigating though heavily crevassed terrain.  At the end of the Hell's Highway traverse was a steep climb up and around a corner to reach the Sulphide Glacier.  

Justin near where Hells Highway meets the Sulphide Glacier

Justin on the gigantic Sulphide Glacier

Once on the Sulphide Glacier, we had great views of the summit pyramid. We continued upward choosing the path with the least crevasses and worked up to the summit pyramid where the route turned to rock. We chose to climb the south ridge, or maybe it was the southeast ridge; it was the right skyline as opposed to the traditional gullies.  

Summit pyramid with climbers descending on the central snowpatch

We simul-climbed it in two pitches with minimal route-finding difficulties and reached the summit at 2:20 p.m.  

Laura contemplating the route ahead

Justin leading the final pitch to the summit

The clouds were below us, so the views were somewhat obstructed, but it was still beautiful up there. We spent some time enjoying the summit and reading the summit register.  Laura texted our friend Mareshah, who first recommended this route to us and swears it is her favorite route of all time.  

Summit with Mount Baker just peeking through the clouds

Justin on the summit with the summit register in his hand

Eventually we worked our way down utilizing some of the many rappel slings down the pyramid gullies.  

Leaving the summit of Mount Shuksan

Descending into the clouds

When we reached our camp at the top of Winnie's Slide, it was overwhelmed with other people who were setting up for an attempt at the summit the following day. We initially tried to relax, but the very small area available for camping was in high demand.  People were asking us to move part of our tent to make space for theirs. 

A very busy high camp when we returned

Laura and I chose to break down our tent and move our camp down to Lake Ann since there was still plenty of daylight. We hiked out and reached Lake Ann and found a good camping spot for the evening.  

Moody skis as we crossed back across the White Salmon Glacier

Rappelling down the Fisher Chimneys

We had dinner and watched the stars and looked across at Mount Baker, the mountain we would head for in the morning. 

Setting up camp near Lake Ann

Shuksan was a beautiful climb with an awesome climbing route of the Fisher Chimneys and we both thoroughly enjoyed it. The climbing is engaging fun but never too hard and the views are spectacular. 

Beautiful sunset from our camp by Lake Ann

The next morning, we hiked out from Lake Ann to the car and headed over to the ranger station in town to dry our gear for Mount Baker.

Views of Mount Baker from below Lake Ann

The wildflowers were amazing