Coyote Gulch, Peek-a-Boo and Spooky Slot Canyons

 


Hazel was looking forward to spending some time outside with her parents after a long week with family. We wanted to break up the drive home so we decided that we would stop in Escalante and explore a few canyons. 

High above Coyote Gulch

When we arrived in town, most places were closed for the season but we managed to find an open restaurant to have dinner at and recharge for a long hike the next day. We woke early and drove almost 30 miles down Hole in the Rock road. The road is terrible washboard the entire way because it is quite sandy. I managed to find a good speed somewhere around 40 mph that was the least brutal. Laura sat in the back and held Hazel’s head so she wasn’t vibrated too much through her car seat. We had discussed hiking only a portion of Coyote Gulch since it is over 13 miles to do the loop but we decided that hiking out and back didn’t make any sense. 

Crack in the Wall - Entrance to Coyote Gulch

We got an early start and opted to drop into the canyon through Crack in the Wall and then head upstream from there. Walking along the canyon rim, it took a bit of wandering to find the easy path down into the large canyon. When we found it we worked our way through the tight squeeze and then down the sandy hillside to a platform maybe 100 feet above the river. I set up a rope belay for Laura and she and Hazel cautiously descended the rock slabs down to the river. I coiled the rope and followed. 

Hazel with Stevens Arch in the distance

Path down into Coyote Gulch

We changed to water shoes and neoprene socks and stepped in the icy cold water. The confluence of the canyon with the Escalante river was only a few hundred feet downstream so we walked over and then started our hike up Coyote Gulch. The canyon was impressive and had many neat features; 1,000 foot walls, lush vegetation in the middle of the desert, multiple arches, cliff dwellings and lots of other interesting things to see and experience. 

Confluence of the Escalante River and Coyote Gulch







Natural Bridge


Mark on the wall indicating the climb out

Jacob Hamblin Arch

Looking down on the Jacob Hamblin arch from the top

Making our way back to the car after climbing out of the canyon

Looking at the Moki balls

Hazel did excellent all day as we carried her facing out much of the day so she could experience the views and changing scenery. Near the exit of the canyon we saw the most impressive arch of the day before climbing up the exit slabs. There was a rope there from a group who had descended earlier in the day so I cautiously climbed using the rope only if required and once I checked that it was secure, Laura and Hazel followed. We made the long hike across the desert rim back to the car and were super happy that the day was as beautiful as it was and that Hazel did so amazing! 

Near the entrance to Peek-a-Boo

The next day we once again drove down Hole in the Rock road. This time we went to a loop of Peek-a-Boo, Spooky and Dry Fork slot canyons. I had visited these canyons before so I knew this would be a fun day with just a few spicy spots with Hazel. We carried a rope to be extra safe but never ended up needing it. Peek-a-Boo was short and fun. We made quick time through the shallow and narrow slot canyon. It was impressive as before but I was disappointed to find many places where people had carved their names in the rock. I suspect that with the destruction of the canyons will come a permit system and the BLM will try to do a better job at preventing people who don’t respect the canyons from getting down there.  Next we hiked over to Spooky canyon. The beginning was excellent fun and I enjoy this canyon more than Peek-a-Boo. The chock stone downclimb was the most interesting part of the canyon as I made a few chimney moves down the 15 foot drop with Hazel in the pack on my chest. She did great and even laughed as we made our way down the narrow slot. It was narrow enough that I had to take Hazel out of the pack and carry her above my head several times so we could squeeze through the narrowest parts of the canyon. Exiting, we stopped for a break and then had an enjoyable hike up the Dry Fork and on back to the car. 










On our way back to town we stopped at Devils Garden and checked out the toadstools and arches of the area. Not much makes me happier than being outside with my family and although she won’t remember them, I hope that Hazel will look back at these early adventures and find inspiration for her own later down the road.









Red Rock, Nevada - Dark Shadows, Birdland, Black Orpheus, Purblind Pillar


November 25-28, 2020
Chasing Shadows
Red Rock, Nevada
 
Dark Shadows 5.8+
Birdland 5.7
Black Orpheus 5.9+
Purblind Pillar 5.8

Having had our warm up on the Three Penguins in Utah, Laura and I were looking forward to being back in Red Rocks for some longer climbs. It is convenient staying with her sister who lives just 20 minutes away from the national recreation area. We decided that we would climb every other day and enjoy family and Thanksgiving on the other days. 



Dark Shadows Pitch 4
Our first day we tried to climb Birdland first but when we showed up, there was a line at the base of the climb along with parties on the first three pitches. We chose to head on to Dark Shadows. When we arrived at the base, there were two guides gearing up to climb as well. We decided to follow them to the first belay and then do a variation called Chasing Shadows and then rappel back down to the belay before finishing Dark Shadows. All of the pitches of the climb were excellent. We only climbed the first 4 pitches since we didn’t have 2 ropes with us to descend but will add the full route to our Red Rock to do list. 




Birdland
On our hike out, we again stopped by Birdland and this time we got on the route. We ended up catching parties even late in the day so we opted to traverse over to Bighorn. When we reached the base of the wide crack, we learned that we needed 2 ropes to get off of this as well, so back we traversed and finished climbing Birdland before rappelling and heading out for the day.

Black Orpheus Pitch 5

Black Orpheus Pitch 7

Wednesday we headed back and hiked into Oak Creek Canyon and to the base of Black Orpheus, a 1,700 foot route that climbs in 8 pitches. We started climbing around 7am. The bottom four and top four pitches are separated by a 500 foot section of 5.2 climbing that most simuclimb. As I lead off on the first pitch, the climbing was immediately enjoyable. I made quick time to the first belay. Laura followed and we were shortly at the second belay when another party showed up to the base. They were concerned about us being in front of them but insisted that they would just pass us since they were such superior climbers and didn’t want to be stuck behind anyone. I climbed the next two pitches in one and then when Laura got to the 5.2 section, she grabbed the gear and took off on lead on the entire 500 foot section asking why people below needed to be jerks when they have no idea who is in front of them. As Laura began climbing the long, easier section of rock, I coiled about 2/3 of the rope and when it pulled tight, I began simuclimbing. Turns out we were the faster group today and that the trash talkers were very slow. They were still on the first pitch as I lead off on pitch 5. The upper section of the climb was awesome with one long 5.9 pitch followed by a tricky 5.9+ section and then onto a long 5.7 layback for almost an entire 70 meter rope length. Laura lead the upper slab section as we topped out around 11am. We goofed off and took pictures before making the long and slightly complex hike out and were back to the Jeep by 3pm.

Summit of Black Orpheus

Purblind

The last day we decided to climb in an area of the park we had not climbed in before. Purblind Pillar is in White Rock Spring and is a very different, soft and crumbly sandstone, unlike most other areas of Red Rock. We climbed the 5 pitch route in the cold wind and were happy to make belays in the sun when possible. The first pitch is a long and excellent crack that then moves left and under a small roof. You then cross some 5.8 slab with a single bolt and then onto the better (in my opinion) upper pitches of the climb. The third pitch passes two bolts in interesting areas, in fact I only clipped one of them not understanding why the other was there at all. Pitch 4 was my favorite and is a 200 foot hand crack and chimney without a lot of protection. Laura lead the last 100 feet to the summit!

Overall we had an excellent time in Red Rock as we always do and we left having added several excellent climbs to our list. There are many more and we will undoubtedly be back soon!

All climbs can be done with my standard red rock rack. Cams.1-.4, doubles of .5-3 and a #4

















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