Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon Mountain

 
Blitzen Ridge
Ypsilon Mountain

Rocky Mountain National Park

July 21, 2018

Justin and I have been slowing ticking off some of the most classic climbs in Colorado.  Blitzen ridge is a very popular and often talked about climb in Rocky Mountain National Park.  The description on Mountain Project even describes it as the best ridge climb in the park.  Despite forecasted rain, we decided to go for it anyway with an alpine start and a plan to be back to the car by 1pm.  We left Lawn Lake trailhead at 3:30am with balmy temperatures and clear skies.  The 4.5 mile hike to Ypsilon Lake went quickly with one little start when we noticed a set of eyes watching us.  It reminded me of a trip report I had read where the climbers had an encounter with a mountain lion on this exact trail.  We don't know if it was a mountain lion, but we started talking a little louder and kept a closer eye on our surroundings. Reaching the lake just before sunrise, we stopped to eat, enjoy the beautiful scenery and talk about our route options. 

We elected to bushwhack around to the north side of the lake where we climbed steep grassy slopes that turned into the ridge and got narrower and narrower the further we continued up.  From here we got our first look at the crux of the route, the 4 aces.  The aces are diamond shaped, rocky high points or sub peaks along the ridge that are slightly technical with a 5.4 YDS rating and have plenty of exposure on all sides.  Route descriptions had indicated that you should traverse around the first two aces on the left side, then climb directly over the third and traverse around the fourth ace on the right side. 

In an attempt to follow the route description and take the path of least resistance, we started traversing around the left side on good, but skinny ledges.  

After traversing for a ways, we worked our way to a saddle between two of the aces.  Assuming we had passed the first two, we then proceeded to head up and over the ace directly in front of us.  At the top, we quickly realized, we were already on the 4th ace and the headwall was directly in front of us.  Ha, so much for staying on route.

As we continued up the last 1,000 feet, we could see people up top relaxing and enjoying the sun.  Due to the very easy route up from trail ridge road, this is a popular mountain.  Along the way, I spotted a brilliant red, translucent stone with smooth facets on the side that was exposed.  It was embedded in a giant boulder, but the part that was visible was probably half an inch by three quarters of an inch long.  We had never seen anything like it before and were unsure what it was.  At home later in the evening, I did some research and think it might have been rhodochrosite, the Colorado state mineral.

At the summit, it was a regular party.  Some girls from the nearby YMCA camp were drinking beer and everyone was sharing gummy dinosaurs.  Even the marmots were hanging out hoping for some scraps.  Being that it was only 9:30 and there was no sign of rain in the near future, we decided to traverse to another nearby 13er, Mount Chiquita, before descending back to the car.  

As we wandered down the SW slopes of Mount Chiquita, we passed through fields of beautiful wildflowers. 

We saw giant bunches of blue columbines; more than I think I've ever seen in one place before.  Despite some haze from nearby wildfires, the views of Longs peak and the Mummy range were impressive.  Reaching the car at 1:30, we promptly kicked off our shoes and popped open some beers; another fun adventure in the books.

             

Lover's Leap

July 5, 2018
Lover's Leap
Strawberry, California

Laura always reminds me that she has climbed way longer than I have when she talks about the times her father, Stan would take her and her brother out on the rock when they were just kids. The stories are endless and the memories great for her, so when we climbed in California this year, we made it a priority to get her dad on the rock again after a 25 year hiatus. We came home from our long Palisades mountain weekend and while out at a winery, learned of a local crag just 10 minutes from home. We made a plan and went there the following day for a few routes before heading to the famous Lover's Leap. I set up a few 5.6 - 5.7 routes and one 5.9 climb and Laura and Stan followed both.

After a relaxing Independence Day, we loaded up our gear and headed to the leap the following morning. We chose an easy 3 pitch climb for the three of us called Knapsack Crack. I would lead and Laura and her dad would climb together as I belayed them from high above. The climbing was nice and the three of us enjoyed the beautiful morning on the rock. Reaching the top of the climb, we descended off the hogback rock formation and headed to a shady spot and our cooler to have a quick lunch.

Finishing lunch, we headed off to climb the mega classic Corrugation Corner route on the main climbing wall at Lover's Leap. It is a 3 pitch climb that has hundreds of outstanding reviews, so we figured it would be a great introduction to the area. On the approach, Stan found a brand new #4 camalot while I was ahead looking for the beginning of the route. Stan had been sick all week so the first climb wore him out. He decided to relax under a tree and watch while we climbed. Walking along the ledges, I came to the start where there were 2 guys just beginning to climb. They seemed to move quickly so Laura and I geared up. I asked if she would like to take the lead on the first section of rock and she agreed, so I passed the gear her way and off she went.

Making quick work of pitch 1, Laura shared the belay with the party in front of us as I climbed up to join them. Pitch 2 is a fantastic, exposed arête and is great climbing for a full rope length and stopping just before a chimney section in the rock. Laura said she was happy that I lead that section but thought the climbing was great. The final 200 feet to the summit was excellent. A short chimney and then a 25' traverse to the right, protected by a single old pin. Getting to the right facing crack, I was happy to place a piece of protection and work my way up the final 100' of easy climbing on the unique horizontal dikes the rock is composed of. Topping out after a casual 2 hours, we loaded the gear in our pack and jogged down the trail to meet Stan and head home for the day. Next time we head back, we hope to take Stan on Bear's Reach, the famous climb with a video from Dan Osman and also get on some more challenging routes on the magnificent climbing area just an hour from our home for the week!

Palisades Traverse

Palisades Traverse, CA

Mt. Sill (via Swiss Arete) à Polemonium Peak à N. Palisade Peak à Starlight Peak à Thunderbolt Peak

                                                                                                                          

Laura and I headed back to California to continue our goal of completing all of the 14ers in the Continental US. This time it would be a short weekend in the Palisades. We planned a week in CA this year, but most of that time would be spent with Laura’s Father and family.

From Colorado, we flew to Reno and met Laura’s father for dinner. We were soon to his home near Tahoe and looking for a good nights rest. Awake the next morning and out the door by 8 am, we drove south toward Bishop to pick up our permit. Most opt to approach the Palisade glacier from the North Fork of the Big Pine Creek but we had to settle for a bit of a roundabout way to approach the Palisades Traverse.  We were only able to obtain a permit for the South Fork of the Big Bine, so we decided to make the 8 mile hike in to Elinor Lake and set up camp there. From the lake we would go over a pass between Mt. Jepson and Mt. Sill and do the traverse from Sill to Thunderbolt rather than the more common Thunderbolt to Sill.

We parked at the upper trailhead and began hiking around 2 pm. It was a long haul up and over passes with about half of the approach hike being off trail. We bush wacked and boulder hopped for 6 hours before reaching Elinor Lake and setting up camp in a small meadow. Time passed quickly though as the Palisade Mountains are jagged, sheer and spectacular. Without any doubt, the views were distracting and the hike went quickly.

One of many stream crossings on the hike in

Knowing that we were in for a huge day, we set an alarm for 2 am the following morning. Our approach to Mt Sill from camp would take about 3 hours and then we would have the 5 peaks plus a return trip across Palisade glacier, back over the passes and down to camp once again. 

Camping near Elinore Lake

Sunrise from the Swiss Arete

Reaching Mt Sill, we opted for the 5 pitch Swiss Arete, rated 5.7.      We ascended the L shaped snowfield to the lower pitches of the climbing route and got onto the rock. Roping up, we climbed together with just running protection for several hundred feet until we came to the more challenging technical pitches of the climb. I took the lead and with a very light set of protection, made my way carefully up the cracks and seams, eventually leading to the famous step around move above 1000’ of air. Making the move and protecting with a stuck cam, I moved through the remainder of the difficult terrain and set a belay. Laura quickly followed and agreed that the rock was amazing and the climbing fun. We un roped and worked our way up easier terrain, reaching the summit of Mt Sill at 8:30 am.

Climbing on the Swiss Arete on Mt. Sill

Climbing near the summit of Polemonium

We met a group who had been on the same traverse we were doing for 2 ½ days and had run out of food and water. They asked about our plans. When I told them we were going for all of them in a day; they chose to make smart remarks and head down a descent gulley toward the glacier. Spending just a few minutes atop the mountain, we headed across the ridge toward Polemonium Peak. Interestingly enough, we caught the smart talkers and quickly passed them. They were moving extremely slowly and with out any sense of urgency, I wondered if they would even get off the mountain that day.

Summit of Polemonium looking toward North Palisade

 

We continued on to a challenging Polemonium Peak, climbing just 2 roped sections for safety and were on the summit just 2 hours after leaving Mt. Sill.

Climb out of the U Notch toward North Palisade

Rappelling off of Polemonium, we knew the hardest part was next and we needed to move efficiently to make it through the U notch and to the summit of N Palisade before our set turnaround time. Across more ridgeline and to a stopping point at the top of the U notch, we made 3 long rappels down to the bottom of the notch and found what would be my favorite section of the entire traverse. A long, steep gulley leads out of the u notch and the easiest way is roughly 5.7 climbing. I took the lead and roped up and lead an entire rope length 200’ pitch with a few pieces of placed protection and several fixed pieces along the way. Reaching the exit with just 10 feet of rope left, I built an anchor and belayed while Laura climbed the very enjoyable rock. Within minutes she was out of the notch and we were headed up a snowfield toward the summit of N. Palisade. It was now 12:30 pm and we were what we considered more than half way through the traverse. We spent some time on N Palisade eating and drinking but were once again quickly off as we knew that we would be racing daylight before long.

Rappelling off of North Palisade

Checking out summit block of Starlight

Rappelling off of N Palisade, we moved to a very exposed and loose traverse and were soon climbing our way to the summit of Starlight Peak. Not and official 14er, but still cool, Starlight has a 5.9 summit block that needs to be lassoed and then climbed. Laura and I tossed the rope around and I made the summit at 2:15. Laura quickly followed, took some pictures and we boogied out toward our final peak for the day.

Upon reaching our intended descent gulley, I left my pack and we headed to the summit of Thunderbolt. When we got there, I used Laura’s climbing shoes and moved carefully up the friction 5.9 pitch to the summit of the peak at 5 pm. Lowering off, we swapped shoes and Laura climbed the challenging rock to its peak. Pictures and celebration followed as we knew we were done…almost.

Successful summits of all 5 14ers

Rappelling the Underhill Couloir

We made our way to the Underhill Couloir and began our long descent back to the Palisade Glacier. 7, 8, 9 rappels later, we reached the glacier. We walked across the glacier and made our way over several passes and back to the boulder field that led to camp.

Heading down the Palisade glacier

Somehow, in the darkness and exhaustion we lost our way and ended up rappelling to a meadow where we thought camp was around 9 pm. We wandered aimlessly, looking at maps with dim headlights for the next hour before finding our camp. Exhausted, we climbed into the tent as I devoured a block of sausage and cheese before passing completing a 20 hour day.

The following morning we sat and enjoyed a hot breakfast and coffee. Admiring the surrounding peaks and wondering when we would be back, we made plans to climb more in this pristine area. We made the 8 mile hike out and celebrated one more accomplishment – one that won’t be soon forgotten!